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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Amelia Doll Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;
MATERIALS
YARN
100% Cotton DK weight yarn of your own choice.
I used Sirdar Snuggly cotton & Babytoly 100% cotton in the following colours
(shade in brackets as referred to in pattern)
Fawn 773 for head, arms & legs (Fawn)
White 0762 for socks & top / body (White)
Powder 0763 for skirt & sock edge (Light pink)
Dusty Rose 769 for pants & skirt edge (Light purple)
Mink for hair by Babytoly (Brown)
Other Materials
Hook size 2.75mm
Black embroidery thread
10mm Safety eyes x 1 pair
2 x 10mm buttons
Small amounts of 4 different coloured yarns for the rainbow applique
Small amount of Blush pink yarn for the cheeks
1cm wide ribbon for hair (optional)
Soft toy filling
Stitch markers / round headed pins / yarn needle
Abbreviations
mr – magic ring
st / sts – stitch / stitches
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
dc inc – double crochet inc (2 dc in same
st)
inc – sc increase (2 sc in same st)
hdc – half double crochet
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
BLO – back loop only
FLO – front loop only
dec – invisible decrease (dec 2 sts together FLO)
rnd – round
F/O – fasten off
[…] * … – repeat instruction in bracket … times
(…) – total number of sts in round / row
PATTERN TERMINOLOGY
This pattern is written in US terminology.
US TERM
Single Crochet (sc)
Half Double Crochet (hdc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Treble Crochet (tr) or (trc)
UK TERM
Double Crochet (dc)
Half Treble Crochet (htr)
Treble Crochet (tr)
Double Treble (dtr)
FINISHED SIZE
Approximately 28cm in height using the recommended materials & hook size.
Notes
This pattern does not include any specific stitch tutorials.
Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
Colour changes are made in the last step of the last sc of the round (unless otherwise stated).
I have used the ‘x’ stitch to create my Amelia (yarn under technique).
Using different materials and hook size to what is recommended may alter the final appearance of your Amelia.
If a different size hook and yarn is used, consider adjusting the size of the safety eyes and buttons accordingly.
You are recommended to adjust the number of sts on some parts of the pattern to ensure outfits fit correctly; details are given in the pattern below.
HEAD & BODY
Start with fawn; stuff as you go
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 5, 1 sc (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, [6 sc, inc] x 5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9 – 15 (7 rnds): 48 sc (48)
Rnd 16: [7 sc, inc] x 6 (54)
Rnd 17: 54 sc (54)
Rnd 18: 4 sc, inc, [8 sc, inc] x 5, 4 sc (60)
Rnd 19 – 20 (2 rnds): 60 sc (60)
Rnd 21: [8 sc, dec] x 6 (54)
Insert safety eyes between rounds 16/17, 11 sts apart
Rnd 22: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 8, 2 sc (45)
Rnd 23: [3 sc, dec] x 9 (36)
Rnd 24: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 5, 2 sc (30)
Rnd 25: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
Rnd 26: 1 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] x 5, 1 sc (18)
Rnd 27: 18 sc (18)
Rnd 28: 1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 5, 1 sc (24)
Change to white
Rnd 29: BLO [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
Rnd 30: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 31: 2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 32 – 34 (3 rnds): 36 sc (36)
Rnd 35: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 36 – 44 (9 rnds): 42 sc (42)
Rnd 45: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)
Rnd 46: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 5, 2 sc (30)
Rnd 47: [3sc, dec] x 6 (24)
Rnd 48: 1 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] x 5, 1 sc (18)
Rnd 49: [1 sc, dec] x 6 (12)
Rnd 50: [dec] x 6 (6)
F/O and weave the yarn tail through each FLO of the last round. Gently pull the tail to close the opening and weave in.
ARMS – MAKE 2
Start with fawn; stuff up to round 9 only
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [1 sc, inc] x 3 (9)
Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] x 3 (12)
Rnd 4 – 7 (4 rnds): 12 sc (12)
Rnd 8: [2 sc, dec] x 3 (9)
Rnd 9 – 23 (15 rnds): 9 sc (9)
Change to white
Rnd 24: BLO 9 sc (9)
Rnd 25: 9 sc (9)
Flatten the opening and sc in the next 4 sts through both layers to close. F/O and leave a long tail for attaching.
SLEEVE FRILL EDGE
Now we will make the frill edge on the sleeves.
Hold your work upside down, and attach the white yarn to the first FLO of rnd 23 and make the following;
Ch 3, sc in next st, ch 3, sc in next st, repeat the sequence until you have reached the end of the round.
After the last sc, ch 3 and sl st into the first FLO of round 23 (your starting point)
F/O and weave in ends.
LEGS – MAKE 2
Start with white
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4 – 7 (4 rnds): 18 sc (18)
Rnd 8: [4 sc, dec] x 3 (15)
Rnd 9: 15 sc (15)
Rnd 10: [3 sc, dec] x3 (12)
Rnd 11 – 12 (2 rnds): 12 sc (12)
Stuff the foot firmly
We will now make the ankle joint in the next 3 steps.
Rnd 15: 12 sc (change to light pink in the last step of the last sc in this round) (12)
We will now create the sock edge, working in the FLO of round 15.
SOCK EDGE
Rnd 1: FLO [ch 2, sc in next st] x 12
After the last sc, ch 2 and sl st into the first FLO of round 14 (your starting point).
F/O and weave in tail.
Now we will continue making the leg; stuff the leg as you go and stop stuffing at round 34.
Using fawn and working in the BLO of round 15 (Pic. 12), make a slip knot on your hook and attach to the 1st BLO (Pic. 13).
Rnd 16: BLO 12 sc (12) (Pic. 14)
Rnd 17 – 40 (24 rnds): 12 sc (12)
HAIR
Due to tension and stuffing variances, it is best to continually check the cap on the head as you work to ensure the number of rounds are a suitable fit. If the cap is too short or long, consider adding or removing a few rounds.
Tip: If you feel your cap is too tight, consider incorporating an additional increasing round. For example, replace. rnds 17 – 20 with the following;
Rnd 17: [7 sc, inc] x 6 (54)
Rnd 18 – 19 (2 rnds): 54 sc (54)
Rnd 20: 8 sc, 10 hdc, [dc, dc inc] x 3, hdc, sc, sl st, sc,
hdc, [dc inc, dc] x 3, 10 hdc, 9 sc (54)
We will now make the hair; it is made up of a cap, hairline, and 2 curly ponytails (consisting of 6 curls on each side of the
head). The curls are worked into the cap after it has been attached to the head.
Using brown
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 5, 1 sc (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, [6 sc, inc] x 5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9 – 19 (11 rnds): 48 sc (48)
In the next round we are going to create the hair line.
Rnd 20: 5 sc, 10 hdc, [dc, dc inc] x 3, hdc, sc, sl st, sc, hdc, [dc inc, dc] x 3, 10 hdc, 6 sc (54)
Finish the round with an invisible st, F/O and leave a long tail for attaching to the head.
Attach the hair cap to the head. With the front peak sitting centrally, approximately 7 rounds up from the middle of the eyes, and approximately 4 rounds up from the edge of the white top at the back.
CURLS
Using the number reference guide in Pic. 22; hold your work the right side up and attach the brown yarn to position 1; then working in number order, make the following for the curls.
Curl 1 (position 1) – ch 20, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in each ch (38), sl st in to position 2
Curl 2 (position 2) – ch 26, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in each ch (50), sl st in to position 3
Curl 3 (position 3) – ch 23, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in each ch (44), sl st in to position 4
Turn work upside down for the next 3 curls
Curl 4 (position 4) – ch 20, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in each ch (38), sl st in to position 5
Curl 5 (position 5) – ch 26, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in each ch (50), sl st in to position 6
Curl 6 (position 6) – ch 23, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, inc in each ch (44), sl st in to the base st.
The 2nd set of curls are symmetrical to the 1st set; therefore, start your 2nd set with your work held upside down for curls 1-2-3, then turn right side up for curls 4-5-6.
F/O and weave in tails.
To finish the curls, gently twist the strands and organise them so they hang neatly.
BOWS FOR HAIR
Take a length of brown yarn, and wrap around each set of curls to bring them together. Secure and weave in ends.
Finish with tying ribbons around each set of curls (Pic. 29).
Alternatively you can make 2 crocheted bows (Pic. 30); using the instructions below.
Working into a mr and using a yarn colour of your choice ch 3, 3 dc, ch 3, sl st] x 2
Close the mr and F/O leaving a long tail. Using the tail, firmly wrap it around the centre of the bow, and secure it at the back. Attach the bows to the hair, secure and weave in tail (Pic. 30).
FACIAL DETAILS
EYES
With white yarn, add the whites to the eyes. Take the yarn out at the bottom of the eye (slightly over from the centre), and back in at the top centre (Pic. 31 & 32). Secure and weave in tail.
Using black embroidery thread, add the eye line to both eyes; going from the top of the eye and out to the side by 2-3 sts (Pic. 33). Secure and weave in tail.
SKIRT
The skirt is made in rounds. You will need to test the size on the body after a few rounds to ensure it fits snuggly. You may need to adjust the number of sts used in the round, and adjust subsequent rounds to suit.
Start with light pink
Ch 42 and make a sl st into the 1st ch to make a circle (the sl st counts as a st).
Rnd 1 – 4 (4 rnds): 42 sc (42)- don’t forget to test the size of the skirt after 2 rounds and adjust accordingly (Pic. 43).
Rnd 5: FLO [hdc inc] x 42 (84)
Rnd 6: [1 hdc, 1 hdc inc] x 42 (126)
Rnd 7: 125 hdc, then 1 sc in the last st of the round (126)
Change to light purple for the edge of the skirt
Rnd 8: 126 sc (126)
F/O and make an invisible stitch to finish, weave in tails.
Now we will make the 2nd layer of the skirt working in the BLO of round 4 of the 1st layer.
Working from the underside of the 1st layer, make a slip knot on your hook and insert your hook in the 1st BLO of round 4 (Pic. 46).
Rnd 1 – 2 (2 rnds): 42 sc (42)
Rnd 3: [hdc inc] x 42 (84)
Rnd 4: [1 hdc, 1 hdc inc] x 42 (126)
Rnd 5: 125 hdc, then 1 sc in the last st of the round (126)
Change to light purple for the edge of the skirt Rnd 6: 126 sc (126)
F/O and make an invisible stitch to finish, weave in tails.
PLAYSUIT
The playsuit is made using a combination of rounds, rows and chains, starting with the leg section. The playsuit sits high on the body with a short bib; therefore it may seem a little tight getting it over the body at first. If you prefer a wider fit, consider increasing your hook size by 0.25mm.
LEG ONE: Using light purple, ch 26 and ensuring your chain is not twisted, sl st into the first ch to create a circle (sl st counts as a stitch).
Rnd 1 – 12 (12 rnds): 26 sc (26)
F/O but do not weave in the tail (this will be worked into the scs once the legs are joined). For the starting tail, make an invisible stitch and weave in the tail. Note: As the overall trouser legs are turned up, make sure you weave the starting tail going up inside the work and not to the side, to minimise the exposure of the tail.
LEG TWO: Repeat ‘LEG ONE’ instructions, but do not F/O. At the end of round 12, ch 1 and make 1 sc into the first leg to join as shown in Pic. 49. Your starting tail and join should be sitting on the inside of the legs.
After you have joined the legs; in rnd 13, carry the tail from ‘LEG ONE’ inside the sts (Pic. 50).
Rnd 13: sc in the next 25 sts, 1 sc into the ch, 26 sc around the 2nd leg and 1 sc into the ch (54)
The next round will be the start for the rest of the playsuit (starting at the centre front) (Pic. 51). If you are not at the front centre at the end of rnd 13, work additional scs to start in the correct position (decs from rnd 18 onwards need to be on the sides of your work).
Rnd 14 -17 (4 rnds): 54 sc (54)
Rnd 18: dec, 12 sc, [dec, 11 sc] x 2, dec, 12 sc (50)
Rnd 19 – 21 (3 rnds): 50 sc (50)
Rnd 22: 11 sc, dec, 24 sc, dec, 11 sc, (48)
Rnd 23 – 24 (2 rnds): 48 sc (48)
Rnd 25: 1 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 10 sc (44)
Rnd 26 – 27 (2 rnds): 44 sc (44)
Rnd 28: 1 sc, dec, [9 sc, dec] x 3, 8 sc (40)
Rnd 29: 40 sc (40)
We will now make the bib section of the playsuit working in rows. The bib is 11 sts wide and central to the front of the playsuit; flatten your work and mark out where the bib will be positioned (I marked mine approximately 4-5 sts in from each side) (Pic. 52).
Once you have your stitch markers in place, sc to the 1st marker, ch 1, turn (Pic. 53) (remove 1st stitch marker).
Row 1: work towards the 2nd stitch marker, and continue to work in rows (remove 2nd stitch marker) (11), ch 1. turn
Row 2: 11 sc, ch 1, turn (11)
Row 3: 11 sc (11)
Now we will make the straps with the button holes.
Note: Do not make the chains too tight or overly loose for the straps. The straps are crossed over at the back of the playsuit (Pic. 63), check the length of the straps on your Amelia to ensure they fit. Adjust the number of chains accordingly if needed.
Ch 20, starting in the 6th ch from the hook, sl st in each ch (14), sl st in last sc of row 3 (Pic. 55)
Make a sc in the next 9 sts of the bib (Pic. 56)
Ch 20, starting in the 6th chain from the hook, sl st in each ch (14), sl st in first sc of row 3 (Pic. 57)
F/O and weave in ends.
FINISH
