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Amigurumi Angel Doll Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi KNITTING LOVERS
Today, we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. Main crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unigurumi lambs, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

Today’s daily new crochet pattern Amigurumi Angel Doll Crochet Pattern without amigurumi
I want to give you some information about this pattern;

To create an angel we will need:

-for the body – Gazzal baby cotton 165m/50g

-for the tunic – acrylic Lux factory Polesie yellow 370m/100g

-for wings – Nako Mohair Delicate white 500m/100g

-for boots – ICE Thin Chenille 250m/50g, the second angel was knitted from Naco Mohair Delicate

terracotta color 500m/100gr

-for hair – Perkhorka Creative 240m/50g

-eyes, snowdrops – floss in black, naked, white, green colors

We will also need:

-dry pastel for tinting to match the hair color and white or milky

-tint brush

-a hook suitable for knitting, as well as a 0.5mm hook for knitting eyes

-knitting needles for knitting a chiton

-glue Moment Crystal

-long needle for tightening

-Incovolokka for frame with a section of 1.5 mm and 1.0 mm

– fabric-based adhesive plaster

-PVA glue

The size of the toy made from the included materials is about 20 cm.


Magic ring – amigurumi ring

sc – single crochet

Inc – Increment (knit two from one loop)

Dec – Decavka (Inc knit two loops together)

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Double crochet – double crochet

dv.Dec – double Decab (Inc knit three loops together)

sl-st – connecting post – bias loop

v.p. – air loop

p.p. lifting loop


The Inc marker runs along the edge of the palm from the little finger side and then behind the arm along the elbow (we focus on the photo), If necessary, we make displacement loops.

Left handle

1st row: 6sc in magic ring

2nd row: (Inc, sc)*3 (9)

3rd row: (9)

Row 4: 5sc, 3Dc with one top in one base loop (this is the thumb), 3sc (9)

Row 5: (9)

Row 6: Dec, 7sc (8)

Row 7: (8)

Row 8: Inc, 7sc (9)

Row 9: Inc, 4sc, Inc, 3sc (11)

Rows 10-12: (11) – Check the position of the marker

Let’s prepare the frame for the handles. I took a copper inc-fiber with a cross section of 1 mm, folded it in half, I made a loop that will fit in the palm. Wrapped it with adhesive tape to the junction with the main frame. The length of the incline should be approximately twice the length pens. My handle from the gazal turned out to be 6 cm, which means the frame for the handle should be 12 cm (we focus on your size). We insert the frame with a loop into the palm, the palm is not fill completely, then fill the handle as you knit, evenly and moderately, keeping the shape of the arm, we especially try not to interrupt the shoulder, we don’t need a bodybuilder.

Row 13: 2Inc, 5sc, Dec, 2sc (12)

Row 14: 2Dec, 5sc, Inc, 2sc (11)

Row 15: 6sc, Inc, 4sc (12)

Rows 16-19: (12)

Row 20: 8sc – incomplete row, fasten the thread, cut.

Inc new pen

1st row: 6sc in magic ring

2nd row: (Inc, sc)*3 (9)

3rd row: (9)

Row 4: 3sc, 3Dc with one top in one base loop (this is the thumb), 5sc (9)

Row 5: (9)

Row 6: Dec, 7sc (8)

Row 7: (8)

Row 8: 7sc, Inc (9)

Row 9: Inc, 4sc, Inc, 3sc (11)

10-1 2 rows: (11)

Row 13: 2sc, Dec, 5sc, 2Inc (12)

Row 14: 2sc, Inc, 5sc, 2Dec (11)

Row 15: 6sc, Inc, 4sc (12)

Rows 16-20: (12) After finishing the 20th row Inc work 2sc, from this point we will tie a handle, fasten the thread, cut it.


The legs are knitted the same way, we knit the left leg first, we don’t break the thread on the left leg, we will incorrectly knit the body. The marker goes on the side, so we can make loops if necessary.


1st row: 4ch – from the second loop – Inc, 1 sc, 4 sc in 1, on the other side of the chain – 1sc, Inc (10)

Rows 2-4: (10) align the marker.

5th row: 4Inc, 6sc (14)

Row 6: sc, 2Inc, 2sc, 2Inc, 7sc (18)

7th row: Dec, 3d.Dec, Dec, 5sc (10)

Row 8: 2 sc, Inc, 7sc (11)

Row 9: 3sc, Inc, 7sc (12)

At this stage you need to prepare the frame for the legs. We take two pieces of Incolobra with a cross-section of 1.5 cm and a length of approximately 20 cm. Let’s make a loop at the end (see the photo for reference below), isolate with a plaster. We insert the frame into the leg, do not stuff the toe at all, the heel stuff it tightly, knocking it out, creating the required shape. Into the instep add a little filler and bend the foot slightly. Next we stuff the legs as we go knitting, the degree of stuffing is moderate, without fanaticism.

10th row: 4sc, Inc, 7sc (13) Inc we check the position of the marker.

Row 11: Inc, 5sc, Inc, 6sc (15)

Row 12: 4sc, Inc, 10sc (16)

Rows 13-14: (16) Check the position of the marker.

Row 15: 3sc, Dec, 6sc, 3Inc, 2sc (18)

Row 16: 10sc, 3Dec, 2sc (15)

Row 17: 3sc, Inc, 11sc (16)

Row 18: (16) Check the position of the marker.

Row 19: (Inc, 7sc)*2 (18)

Rows 20-22: (18) On the Inc. leg we knit another 11sc.


The marker is located in the center of the back, so it does not need to be aligned.

We pay attention to the fact that the legs stand up straight (refer to the photo).

1st row: 3ch, 18sc (on the left leg), sc (in the space between the columns), 3sc (on air loops), sc (in the gap between the columns), 18sc (along the left leg), sc (in Inc space between the columns), 2sc (along a chain of ch) – here we place a marker (45)

2nd row: sc (along the chain of ch), sc (in the space between the columns), 44sc (46)

We bend the incline fiber at an angle twice, connect both incline fibers with an adhesive plaster, look at the photo.

Rows 3-5: (46)

Row 6: 5 sc, Dec, 9sc, Dec, 10sc, Dec, 9sc, Dec, 5sc (42)

7-8 rows: (42)

Row 9: 2sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 18sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 2sc (38)

Row 10: (38)

Row 11: (3sc, Dec)*2, 18sc, (Dec, 3sc)*2 (34)

Rows 12-13: (34)

Row 14: 3sc, Dec, 7sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 7sc, Dec, 3sc (30)

Rows 15-18: (30)

We tie our hands.

From the last Inc-knitted stitch on the hand we count four loops to the left, i.e. along the way knitting, and insert the hook into the fourth loop from the wrong side, knit the handles, grabbing simultaneously loops of the handle and body.

If during the knitting process the markers were aligned, then the handles should stand straight, elbow should look clearly back, like the edge of the palm, the thumb should be in front and slightly towards the body. Let’s look at the photo. We stuff the body as we knit. Packing degree moderate.

Row 19: 5sc (along the body), 4sc (together with the left hand), 12sc (along the body), 4sc (together with

Inc with your hand), 5sc (body) (30)

Row 20: 5sc, 8sc (on the arm), 12sc, 8sc (on the arm), 5sc – (38)

Row 21: (38)

Row 22: 4sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 10sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 4sc – (34)

Row 23: 4sc, Dec, 5sc, Dec, 8sc, Decн, 5sc, Dec, 4sc -(30)

24 row: 3sc, Dec, sc, dv.Dec, sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, sc, dv.Dec, sc, Dec, 3sc (22)

Row 25: 2sc, Dec, 3sc, Dec, 4sc, Dec, 3sc, Dec, 2sc (18)

Row 26: (3sc, Dec, 2sc, Dec)*2 (14)

Rows 27-28: (14)

Fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a long end for incising.


1st row: 6sc in magic ring

2nd row: 6Inc (12)

3rd row: (sc, Inc)*6 (18)

4th row: sc, Inc, (2sc, Inc)*5, sc (24)

Row 5: (3sc, Inc)*6 (30)

Row 6: 2sc, Inc, (4sc, Inc)*5, 2sc- (36)

Row 7: (5sc, Inc)*6 (42)

Row 8: 3sc, Inc, (6sc, Inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Row 9: (7sc, Inc)*6 (54)

Row 10: 4sc, Inc, (8sc, Inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Rows 11-14: (60)

Row 15: 21sc, 3Dec, Inc, 4sc, Inc, 3Dec, 21sc (56)

Row 16: 24sc, Dec, Inc, 2sc, Inc, Dec, 24sc (56)

Row 17: 24 sc, Inc, 6 sc, Inc, 24 sc (58)

Row 18: 19sc, 5Inc, 1sc, Dec, 4Inc.Hdc (this is the spout), Dec, 1sc, 5Inc, 19sc (70)

Row 19: 30sc, Inc,(4sc together)*2, Inc, 30sc (66)

Rows 20-21: (66)

Row 22: 19sc, (Dec, 2sc)*2, Dec, 8sc, Dec, (2sc, Dec)*2, 19sc (60)

Row 23: 3sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 7sc, Dec, 16sc, Dec, 7sc, Dec, 6sc, Dec, 3sc (54)

Row 24: 4sc, Dec, 8sc, Dec, 9sc, 2Dec, 9sc, Dec, 8sc, Dec, 4sc (48)

Row 25: 3sc, Dec, (7sc, Dec)*2, 2sc, (Dec, 7sc)*2, Dec, 3sc (42)

Row 26: (5sc, Dec)*6 (36)

Row 27: 2sc, Dec, (4sc, Dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Row 28: (3sc, Dec)*6 (24)

Row 29: sc, Dec, (2sc, Dec)*5, sc (18)

Row 30: (3sc, Dec, 2sc, Dec)*2 (14)

Fasten the thread and cut it. We stuff the head as we knit, where the incs are under the spout, we knock the tubercle out. We also knock out the chin, where there are two Decavs in the 24th row, it will finally take shape after weights. We will incise your head after registration.

Eyes with two rows irises

I knitted clover 0.9 from two strands of floss, not very tightly and came out to my size

eye. 1.4 / 1.1 cm.


1st row: 6sc in magic ring


Row 2: 6 Inc (12)

3rd row: (sc, Inc) *6 (18)

White, dark eye.

4th row: sc, Hdc, Inc( Dc, Double crochet), Dc, Hdc, (Inc, 2sc)*2, Inc, sl-st (17) incomplete row.

White, left eye.

4th row: sl-st, Inc, (2 sc, Inc)*2, Hdc, Dc, Inc( Double crochet, Dc), Hdc, sc (17) incomplete row.

Embroider highlights in white. Fasten all threads on the wrong side and cut.


Point 1 – corner of the mouth (naked pin)

Point 2 – inner corner of the eye (red pin)

Points 3 and 4 are the lower border of the eye, located Incyamo above Increments (blue and green pins)

We insert the needle into the hole in the neck, bring it out at point 1, insert it inward one column in Incavo and output at point 2, insert one column in Incavo and output into the neck hole, pull the thread and fasten it. Again we insert it into the hole in the neck and bring it out to point 3, insert the thread from above, insert it into point 4 and bring it out into the hole in the neck, tighten the thread and secure it. It was a tightening on the left side of the face. Repeat the tightening on the other side in the mirror reflection.

This is the head we get after tightening. For those who find it difficult to navigate visually where to place the pins, here are the reports from the main marker.

Let’s mark the points for the tightening: in the 21st row, count 31 loops from the marker in Incavo, this is t.1. In row 19 count 25 loops in Incavo, this is t.2. From t.2 to Incavo 1 loop, this is t.3. From t.3 to Incavo there are 2 loops, this is v.4

We don’t tighten the strings too much so that we get a cute face and not an evil dwarf.

Let’s look at the photo.

Eyes – option 2

We crochet 0.5 floss tightly in two strands. If the hook does not fit into the loop, you can help with a needle.

Whoever has a thread thinner than gazal on the body knits floss into one thread, and so that there is a little. It’s easier, we knit the first row in two threads, then we switch to one. Amigurumi ring is tight tighten.


1st row: 6sc and magic ring


1st row: 6Inc (12)

3rd row: (1 sc, Inc) *6 (18)

4th row: (2 sc, Inc) *6 (24)

For the left eye, we do not connect the last Incibation.


Incorrect eye.

5th row: sl-st, sc, Hdc, Inc(Dc, Double crochet), Dc, Hdc, sc, Inc sc, (3sc, Inc)*2, sl-st.

Left eye. White.

5th row: Inc(from 4th row), (3sc, Inc)*2, sc, Hdc, Dc, Inc(Double crochet, Dc), Hdc, sc, sl-st.

Embroider highlights on the eyes with white thread; they should look in one direction.

Fasten all threads on the wrong side and cut. I Incickled the eyes, but you can also Incish them, then Leave the white thread for Incising. We will incicle the eyes after tinting.

Our little head is ready. Now we will attach the hair. First, let’s mark the boundaries of hair growth. We count seven rows from the amigurumi ring and place a pin (dark) in the center, count five loops from it in both directions and one row below, place pins (yellow), then another two loops to the sides and one row below (pink ), then a point on the temple, from the pink pin we count five loops to the side and down six rows, put pins on both sides (green), after two loops in the same row we put another pin (green). From the last pin we go down seven rows on the left side, and on the left side we go down six rows and two loops in Incavo (red). Visually check the symmetry of the placed pins and move them if necessary. Now we attach the hair along the intended contour, and then throughout the entire head. I attached the top of the head to each column, and on the back of the head through a row.

We fasten the hair with boney knots, I hope everyone knows how.


1st row: 5sc in magic ring, turn

2nd row: Inc, sc, Inc, sc, Inc (8)

Incise your ears based on the photo.

The back of the ear can be grabbed with a couple of stitches to the head.

Then we embroider the mouth and eyebrows with a couple of stitches using light brown floss.

This is what the face looks like after tightening with an embroidered mouth and eyebrows. You can proceed to tinting.

Well, the most crucial moment has come – TINTING.

We tint very carefully, we act like sappers, literally after every brush stroke look at the picture, in our case it is better to undertone than overtone, I did step by step photos of how I tinted, we are guided by both my photos and the picture original.

First, we select the tone with which we will tint; it should be the same color as hair color, only less saturated.

I have it like this:

We begin to apply tinting from the hairline, then along the temples, near the ears and along chin, along the entire perimeter of the face. Apply a little at a time, looking at the picture all the time.

From the edge of the hair to the center of the face, the color saturation should decrease.

Then we tint the eye sockets so that the tint is slightly visible from under the eyes, tint the nose, the line of the mouth is thin.

Then add a little tone along the direction from the eye to the nose and from the corner of the mouth to the bottom cheeks. Let’s look at the photo.

Now we add the eyes and tint above the eye with a dark tone, like a triangle, slightly capturing the upper part of the eye, literally along the end of the eye. Very neat!

Next, apply a light tone (white or milky) to the prominent areas of the face: on forehead, cheeks, chin and place a small dot on the nose. Let’s look at the photo.

Then we shade with a clean brush to smooth out the borders of the colors and make transitions. colors are invisible. This is what should happen as a result of our torment. Now you can Incickle the eyes, Incish head


We cast on 22 loops. We knit the first row with purl stitches.

2 persons: 4, Inc, 2, Inc, 6, Inc, 2, Inc, 4 (26)

3 p.w: 5, Inc, 2, Inc, 8, Inc, 2, Inc, 5 (30)

4 persons: 6, Inc, 2, Inc, 10, Inc, 2, Inc, 6 (34)

5 p.w: 7, Inc, 2, Inc, 12, Inc, 2, Inc, 7 (38)


6 persons: 7, Inc, 4, Inc, 12, Inc, 4, Inc, 7 (42)

7 r.p.: (42)

8 persons: 7, Inc, 6, Inc, 12, Inc, 6, Inc, 7 (46)

9 r.p.: (46)

10 persons: 7, Inc, 8, Inc, 12, Inc, 8, Inc, 7 (50)

Rows 11-13: (50) stockinette stitch.

14 persons: 6, 2 Inc, (10, 2 Inc)*3, 6 (58)

15 p.p.: 7, 2Inc, (12, 2 Inc)*3, 7 (66)

16 persons: 8, 2 Inc, (14, 2 Inc)*3, 8 (72)

Knitting sleeves

17 r.p.: 10 (along the front), 18 (along the sleeve), turn. Next we knit only the sleeve 10 rows of 18 stitches in stockinette stitch.

11th row: (1, 2 vm)*6 – (12)

Row 12: (12)

Close the sleeve loops. Leave the end of the thread for sewing the sleeve.

We remove the back loops onto the Incali knitting needle (there are shelf loops on it), fasten thread and knit 18 sleeve loops. This is the purl row. Turn the knitting and knit 10 rows of sleeves with stockinette stitch similar to the first sleeve, finish in the same way.

We again remove the loops of the back onto the right knitting needle to the loops of the right shelf. Fasten the thread between the left front and the left sleeve and Inc we continue to knit the purl row along the loops the back and the front shelf are the continuation of the 17th row.

18 – 21 rows: (38)

22 persons: 9, 2 Inc, 16, 2 Inc, 9 (42)

23 r.p.: (42)

24 persons: 10, 2 Inc, 18, 2 Inc, 10 (46)

25 – 27 rows: (46)

28 persons: 11, 2 Inc, 20, 2 Inc, 11 (50)

29 – 33 rows: (50)

34 persons: 12, 2 Inc, 22, 2 Inc, 12 (54)

35 – 39 rows: (54)

40 persons: 13, 2 Inc, 24, 2 Inc, 13 (58)

41 – 47 rows: (58)

Close the loops, remove and trim all the threads. Steam with an iron and sew the sleeves. Incish buttons or buttons or hooks, or you can sew incosto on the angel.

I have three plastic buttons.

We put on the finished chiton so that the clasp is at the back. When I described in the original I wrote the back and two shelves, but we get the front and two parts of the back, but on incorrect knitting does not affect this in any way.


Two parts are knitted identically in rotating rows BEHIND THE REAR WALL OF THE LOOP. Knitting freely, you can take a hook half a size larger than the main one so that the wings are air. White mohair, 500 meters per 100 grams.

1 – 7 ch, turn

2 – 6sc, 1p.p., turn – (7)

3 – 6sc, 3ch, turn – (9)

4 – 8sc, 1p.p, turn – (10)

5 – 8sc, 3ch, turn – (11)

6 – 10 sc, 1p.p, turn – (11)

7 – 10sc, 3ch, turn (13)

8 – 12sc, 1p.p, turn (13)

9 – 12sc, 3ch, turn (15)

10 – 14sc, 1p.p, turn – (15)

11 – 14sc, 3ch, turn – (17)

Row 12: 16sc, 1st stitch, turn (17)

Row 13: 16sc, ch3, turn (19)

Row 14: 18sc, 1st stitch, turn (19)

Row 15: 18sc, ch3, turn (21)

Row 16: 20sc, Inc we continue to knit along the edge of the previously connected rows, Inc we knit 4 Dec, there, where there were lifting loops (through the row), so we have a kind of wing tightens, turn (24) without item

Row 17: skip the first loop, 23sc, ch3, turn (26)

Row 18: 24sc, sl-st

Fasten the thread, cut it, leaving the tip for incineration.

In the last row, you can knit a beaded Incolovolka and even better knit it, then

The wings can be shaped into the desired shape. You can also separate the fluffy thread

from KHT and knit wings only from it.

I added the wings to the chiton.


Inc Yazha Nako Mohair Delicate.

The Inc marker goes in the center at the back, so there is no need to make an offset loop.

1- 7 ch, from the second loop: Inc, 4 sc, 4 in 1, on the other side of the chain: 4 sc, Inc – (16)

2- 1 sc, Inc, 4 sc, Inc, 2 sc, Inc, 4 sc, Inc, 1sc – (20)

3- Inc, 1 sc, Inc, 5 sc, Inc, (1 sc, Inc)*2, 5 sc, Inc, 1 sc – (26)

4 – 6 – (26)

7- 8 sc, 5 Dec, 8 sc – (21)

8- 6 sc, 2 Dec, 1 sc, 2 Dec, 6 sc – (17)

9- (17)

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