Hello dear Amigurumi KNITTING LOVERS
Today, we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. Main crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unigurumi lambs, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…
Today’s daily new crochet pattern Amigurumi Doll Free Crochet pattern without amigurumi
I want to give you some information about this pattern;
Materials
• Sock weight yarn in black, brown, blue, light
peach, grey, red, white
• 2.5mm crochet hook
• Fiberfill
• 12mm black safety eyes
• A small piece of plastic sheet
• A pair of scissors
• Three 6mm blue round buttons
• Yarn needle
• Sewing needle
• Sewing Pearl headed pins
• Stitch markers
• Black sewing thread
• Keychain
• Metallic stud sticker [I used eight studs in
silver]
• 16 gauge wire
• Wire cutter
• Masking tape
Special Notes
4-dc Bobble Stitch
YO, insert hook in the next st, pull yarn through, YO,
pull yarn through the first two st (2 st on hook); YO,
insert hook in the same st, pull yarn through, YO,
pull yarn through the first two st (3 st on hook); YO,
insert hook in the same st, pull yarn through, YO, pull
yarn through the first two st (4 st on hook); YO, insert
hook in the same st, pull yarn through, YO, pull yarn
through the first two st (5 st on hook); YO, pull yarn
through all five st.
Back/Front Post Single Crochet Stitch
For Back / Front Post Single Crochet, there is an
Terminology [US]
ch (chain)
magic ring
st (stitch)
sc (single crochet)
dc (double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)
bpsc (back post single crochet)
fpsc (front post single crochet)
inc (increase)
dec (decrease)
sl st (slip stitch)
4-dc bobble st
SHOE & LEG [make 2]
Note: Before you start working on the shoe, cut a
12-inch strand of black yarn and keep it aside. You
will need it to sew the sole to the shoe.
With black yarn, ch 8.
Rnd 1: Starting from second ch from the hook, sc
6, inc in the last chain. Continuing on the opposite
side of the foundation chain, sc 6. [14]
Rnd 2: inc in all 14 st. [28]
Rnd 3: sc around. [28]
Rnd 4: bpsc around. [28]
Make the Sole: On a small plastic sheet, lay the
sole flat, trace an outline around it and cut out the
base. Check if it fits within the boundary created
by the back post sc in Round 4. Trim further
if required. Make 2 holes in the center, a few
centimeters apart. Make a second sole following
the same instructions and keep them aside.
Rnd 5: sc around. [28]
Insert sole: Place the plastic sole on the inside
of the sneaker, thread a yarn needle with black
yarn, and holding both pieces together, insert the
needle from inside to out through the hole and
from outside to in through the second hole. Knot
the yarn ends together to secure
Rnd 6-7: sc around. [28]
Rnd 8: sc 10, dec 5, sc 8. [23]
Rnd 9: sc 8, dec 4, sc 7. [19]
Join brown yarn.
Rnd 10: BLO sl st around. [19]
Rnd 11: BLO sc 7, dec 3, sc 6. [16]
Stuff shoe with fiberfill.
Rnd 12-17: sc around. [16]
Rnd 18: (sc 3, inc) X 4. [20]
Rnd 19-20: sc around. [20]
Left leg: Counting anti-clockwise, mark the second
st from the last worked stitch. This is where we will
join the legs later. Fasten off. Stuff the leg
Right leg: sl st in the next 8 st. Mark the last
worked st as the end of the round. Stuff the leg but
do not fasten off. Next, we will join the legs.
BODY
Hold both legs together, the leg with the ‘live’
stitch on the right and the first leg on the left.
Make sure the toes are facing away from you
Rnd 1: With the live stitch on your hook, ch 1.
Insert your hook in the marked stitch of the left
leg, and make an sc. sc in the remaining 19 st on
this leg [Pic 5]. Next, sc 1 in the front loop (or the
loop facing you) of the ch 1 you made earlier. sc in
the remaining 20 st of the right leg. [42]
Rnd 2: sc 1 in the front loop of the ch 1 you made
in the previous round. sc in the remaining 42 st
around both legs. [42]
Rnd 3-4: sc around. [42]
Join black yarn.
Rnd 5: BLO sl st around. [42]
Rnd 6: BLO sc around. [42]
Join blue yarn.
Rnd 7: BLO sl st around. [42]
Rnd 8: BLO sc around. [42]
Rnd 9: sc around. [42]
Rnd 10: (sc 5, dec) X 6. [36]
Rnd 11-13: sc around. [36]
Rnd 14: (sc 4, dec) X 6. [30]
Rnd 15-18: sc around. [30]
Rnd 19: (sc 3, dec) X 6. [24]
Rnd 20-21: sc around. [24]
Stuff the body.
Join light peach yarn.
Rnd 22: dec X 12. [12]
Rnd 23-30: sc around. [12]
It is very important to stuff the neck as firmly as
possible at this point so it can support the weight of
the head.
Rnd 31: dec X 6. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using your yarn needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each
remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the neck.
Weave in the yarn end.
SHIRT COLLAR
Ch 21 with blue yarn.
Row 1: 2 dc in fourth ch from the hook, dc in the next
3 ch, 2 dc in the next 2 ch, dc in the next 8 ch, 2 dc in
the next ch, dc in the next 3 ch, (dc in the next ch, ch
3, sl st in the same ch).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
ARM [make 2]
Start with light peach yarn.
Left Arm
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: inc X 6. [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) X 6. [18]
Rnd 4-5: sc around. [18]
Rnd 6: 4-dc bobble, sc 17. [18]
Rnd 7: (sc, dec) X 6. [12]
Join blue yarn.
Rnd 8: BLO sl st around. [12]
Rnd 9: BLO sc around. [12]
Rnd 10-23: sc around. [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail
for sewing.
Right Arm
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2: inc X 6. [12]
Rnd 3: bpsc around. [12]
Join blue yarn.
Rnd 4: BLO sl st around. [12]
Rnd 5: BLO sc around. [12]
Rnd 6-19: sc around. [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
CHAINSAW
Cuff
Ch 19 with black yarn.
Row 1: Starting from second ch from the hook, sc 18,
ch 1, turn. [18]
Row 2: sc 18. [18]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew. Sew short ends
of the rectangle together. Do not clip off the remain
yarn tail. We will use it to sew the cuff and body of
the chainsaw together.
Base
Work with red yarn.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in a magic ring. [4]
Rnd 2: 3 sc in each st around, join. [12]
Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in the same st, 3 sc in the next st, (sc
in the next 2 st, 3 sc in the next st) X 3, sc in the last
st, join. [20]
Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st, 3 sc in
the next st, (sc in the next 4 st, 3 sc in the next st) X
3, sc in the last 2 st, join. [28]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the arm with the stump with fiberfill and insert
it in the cuff [Pic 6-7]. We are doing this so that the
cuff holds the shape of the arm. We should be able
to attach and detach the chainsaw from the arm
later. Place it on top of the base and sew the cuff to
the base as shown in Pic 8 & 9. Make sure you do
not sew the arm to the cuff or the base. Remove arm
from the cuff and take out fiberfill from it.
Body
Work with red yarn.
Rnd 1: 4 sc in a magic ring. [4]
Rnd 2: 3 sc in each st around, join. [12]
Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in the same st, 3 sc in the next st,
(sc in the next 2 st, 3 sc in the next st) X 3, sc in
the last st, join. [20]
Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st, 3
sc in the next st, (sc in the next 4 st, 3 sc in the
next st) X 3, sc in the last 2 st, join. [28]
Rnd 5: ch 1, bpsc around. [28]
Rnd 6-10: sc 3, fpsc, (sc 6, fpsc) X 3, sc 3. [28]
Fasten off. Weave in the yarn end.
Saw [make 2]
Ch 11 with grey yarn.
Row 1: Starting from second ch from the hook,
sc 9, 3 sc in the last ch. Continue working on the
opposite side of the foundation ch. Sc 9, ch 1,
turn. [21]
Row 2: sc 9, inc, sc, inc, sc 9. [23]
Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.
Make the second piece but do not fasten off.
Keep the last worked st on the hook.
Hold the two pieces together, wrong sides facing
each other. Note that the right side of the piece
with the “live” stitch should be facing you. We
will now join the two pieces and make the teeth
of the saw by working on the back loop of the
piece close to you and the front loop of the
other piece at the same time all around [Pic 10].
Ch 1, sl st in the next 2 st, (ch 3, sl st in third ch
from the hook, sl st in the next 3 st) X 7.
Fasten off and sew it on the body of the
chainsaw [see Pic 11 for reference].
Handlebar
Ch 8 with black yarn.
Row 1: Starting from second ch from the hook,
ch 7.
Fasten off and sew it on the body of the
chainsaw [see Pic 12 for reference].
Starter recoil cover
Rnd 1: With grey yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring, sl st
in the first st to join.
Fasten off and sew it on the body of the
chainsaw
Lightly stuff the body of the chainsaw and sew
the base over the open end
MAKE MOVABLE ARMS
The next step involves working with wires so that
your doll’s arms are poseable.
Measure the length of the first arm, the area
above the chest where the wire will go through
the body, and then the second arm; add an
additional inch/2.5 cm. This is the total length of
wire needed.
With a wire cutter, bend one end to make an
eyelet. Wrap a masking tape around the eyelet to
prevent it from poking through the stitches. Insert
this end into the first arm and stuff around it.
Insert the other end of the wire into the area
where the arm will be placed—this will be on Rnd
19 of the body. Push the wire all the way through
to the other side where the second arm will be
placed. Bend the tip into an eyelet, secure with
masking tape, insert this wire into the second arm
and stuff around it. Now pin the arms between
Rnd 18 and 20 of the body and sew them in place
[Pic 15]. From the T position, push the arms to the
sides of the body.
SHIRT DETAILS
Note: See Pic 16 for reference.
Thread a yarn needle with blue yarn and sew two
vertical lines on the front of the shirt, from the
neck down to the waistline. Sew buttons between
these two lines.
Sew the shirt collar around the base of the neck.
With grey yarn, embroider a belt buckle. With brown
yarn, embroider belt loops over the belt, two at the
front and three at the back.
HEAD
Rnd 1: With light peach yarn, 8 sc in a magic ring. [8]
Rnd 2: inc X 8. [16]
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. [24]
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. [32]
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. [40]
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) X 8. [48]
Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) X 8. [56]
Rnd 8-20: sc around. [56]
Rnd 21: (sc 5, dec) X 8. [48]
Rnd 22: (sc 4, dec) X 8. [40]
Rnd 23: (sc 3, dec) X 8. [32]
Rnd 24: (sc 2, dec) X 8. [24]
Insert eyes between Rnd 16 & 17, 9 stitches apart.
Rnd 25: dec X 12. [12]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff head, leaving space
in the center for neck insertion.
EYES, EYEBROWS & NOSE
Note: See Pic 17 for reference.
Thread a yarn needle with white yarn and embroider a
crescent shape around the outer eye.
With two strands of black sewing thread, embroider
eyebrows between Rnd 13 & 15.
To make the nose, sew 3 short horizontal lines
between the eyes [between Rnd 17 & 18 of the head]
EAR [make 2]
Row 1: With light peach yarn, 3 sc in a magic ring, ch
1, turn. [3]
Row 2: inc in each of the 3 st. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew.
HAIR
Note: We will make the hair in two parts: [i] the basic
wig, which this section will cover, and [ii] the front
hairpiece which we will make after all parts of the doll
are sewn together
Top
Rnd 1-8: Follow pattern for head using black yarn. [56]
Back – Part I
From here onwards, we will work in rows.
Row 1-5: sc 36, ch 1, turn. [36]
Row 6: inc, sc 34, inc, ch 1, turn. [38]
Row 7: inc, sc 36, inc, ch 1, turn. [40]
Row 8-9: sc 40, ch 1, turn. [40]
Sideburns
Next, we will work on the right sideburn.
Row 1-2: sc 2, ch 1, turn. [2]
Row 3: sc 2. [2]
Fasten off.
With the “right” side of the facing you, mark the 1st
and the 6th stitch [Pic 18]. Join black yarn on the 1st
marked stitch. We will now make the second sideburn.
Row 1-2: sc 2, ch 1, turn. [2]
Row 3: sc 2. [2]
Fasten off.
Back – Part II
Join black yarn on the next marked st.
Row 1: sc 30, ch 1, turn. Leave the last 3 st
unworked. [30]
Row 2-4: sc 30, ch 1, turn. [30]
Row 5: dec, sc 26, dec, ch 1, turn. [28]
Row 6: sc 28, ch 1, turn. [28]
Row 7: dec, sc 24, dec, ch 1, turn. [26]
Row 8: sc 26. [26]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Put the hairpiece on the head, aligning the magic
ring of the hairpiece with that of the head, and
sew it in place. Make sure to leave a little gap
between the sideburn and the back of the hair.
Sew ear in this gap. Thread a yarn needle with
grey yarn and sew grey streaks on the sideburn
JOIN HEAD TO BODY
Note: This head-body joining technique ensures
that the head of your amigurumi is movable.
Thread black yarn and insert the needle from the
center of the magic ring on the head [or in this
case, the wig] and out from the neck opening [Pic
20]. Now insert your needle through the base of
the neck [between Rnd 24-25 of the body], back
through the neck opening on the head, bringing it
out again from the magic ring on the head. Slide
the head down the two strands of yarn until it sits
perfectly on the neck. Knot the yarn ends together
a few times to secure. Clip off excess yarn and
carefully push remaining yarn back into the head.
HARNESS
Straps
Work with black yarn.
First piece: ch 16; fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Second piece: ch 34; fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Third piece: ch 36; fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Holster
Ch 4 with black yarn.
Rnd 1: Starting from second ch from the chook, sc
2, inc. continue working on the opposite side of
the foundation chain. sc 2. [6]
Rnd 2: BLO sc around. [6]
Rnd 3: (inc, sc) X 3. [9]
Rnd 4-5: sc around. [9]
Rnd 6: (inc, sc 2) X 3. [12]
Rnd 7-8: sc around. [12]
Rnd 9: (inc, sc 3) X 3. [15]
Rnd 10-12: sc around. [15]
Rnd 13: sc around. sl st in the next st to join. [15]
Fasten off; weave in the yarn end.
Assembling the Harness
Remove the split ring from the keychain. You
will need only the 2 jump rings and the four
connecting links between them. Place the
keychain over the right shoulder so that one jump
sits just below the shoulder at the front and the
other at the back
The first strap is attached to the jump ring at the
front of the right shoulder; it goes under the right
arm, and ends at the back of the right shoulder
where it is attached to the jump ring at the back
The second strap is attached to the jump ring at
the front of the right shoulder, right next to the
first strap. It goes across the body, all the way to
the back of the right shoulder where it is attached
to the jump ring at the back
Third piece is attached to the belt on the right side,
goes over the left shoulder, and all the way down to
the right side of the belt at the back.
Sew the holster to the harness at the back as shown in
Stick silver studs along the length of the third strap.
HAIR
Front Piece [make 2]
Wrap black yarn 15 times around your four fingers.
Cut off the yarn.
Cut another long strand of yarn, about 16 inches in
length and use it to tie the strands together at one
end [Pic 29]. Cut out another 16-inch long yarn and tie
the strands at the opposite end.
Pin one end of this hairpiece at the center of the
forehead, just along the hairline, and the opposite end
at the back of the head as shown in Pic 30 & 31. Sew
both ends in place.
Pin the second hairpiece on the forehead; place it
slightly on the left so that this piece overlaps the
first one [Pic 32]. Pin the hairpiece’s other end at the
back of the head as shown in Pic 33. Sew both ends
in place. Clip off excess yarn and push remaining yarn
back into the head.
Push the right arm into the cuff of the chainsaw to
complete the look.