Amigurumi Flamingo Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Flamingo Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

So flexible, so slender, so elegant and oh so delightfully pink!
I must confess I have a bit of an obsession with flamingos,
their beautiful feathers and their unusual poses. These birds
start out as fluffy grey chicks, only developing their pink
plumage as they grow. Interestingly, the colour of their
feathers comes from the food they eat; their favourite snack
contains the same pigment that makes carrots orange. Their
legs are usually longer than their entire body, and no one is
sure exactly why they like to stand on one leg!

Dimensions
40cm (15¾in) tall
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton), 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Bright Pink: 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Bubblegum Pink (shade 451)
Black: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Pure Black (shade 402)
Pale Blue: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Seafoam Blue (shade 432)
Pale Pink: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Candyfloss Pink (shade 450)
Rowan Kidsilk Haze Lace Weight Mohair (70% mohair, 30% silk),
210m (230yds) per 25g (1oz) ball:
Pink Mohair: 1 x 25g (1oz) ball in Sweet (shade 688)
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
3.5mm (US E/4) hook

Other tools and materials
Pair 6mm black safety eyes
3 long pieces of thick gardening wire for the legs and neck
(optional)
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle
FUN FACT
A group of flamingos is called a
flamboyance! Flamingos can be
found in the wild in Florida,
Central and South America and
Africa.
Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across. When made with
DK weight cotton and lace weight mohair held together with a 3.5mm
(US E/4) hook the swatch should measure 4cm (1⅝in) across.
Project notes
The flamingo’s head and neck are
worked in one piece; the curves
are created by skipping stitches
and hidden chains. To make the
flamingo’s body extra fluffy a chain
stitch texture in lace weight pink
mohair is added over the top. The
legs and neck can be reinforced
with wire so that the flamingo can
be posed. The head, neck and
body of the flamingo could be
worked in a faux fur or boucle yarn
instead of the combined yarns.
Special stitches
Front loop only (FLO): Insert the hook under the front loop only
(see Crochet techniques: Front loops/back loops).
Beak
Make 1, start in Black yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [7]
Round 3: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc. [9]
Round 4: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [11]
Round 5: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc. [13]
Round 6: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc. [15]
Round 7: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc. [17]
Round 8: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc. [19]
Round 9: 9sc, 3sc in next st, 9sc. [21]
Round 10: 10sc, 3sc in next st, 10sc. [23]
Round 11: 11sc, 3sc in next st, 11sc. [25]
Round 12: 12sc, 3sc in next st, 12sc. [27]
Round 13: 11sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 6sc, 5slst. [25]
Round 14: 5slst, 7sc, inv dec, 11sc. [24]
Round 15: Sc in all 24 sts. [24]
Rounds 16–23: Change to Pale Blue yarn, sc in all 24 sts. [8
rounds]
Round 24: 2sc, slst in next st, skip the remaining sts. [3]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 1)

Head
Make 1 in Bright Pink yarn held together with Pink Mohair, with a
3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Round 1: 7sc in a magic ring. [7]
Round 2: Inc in all 7 sts. [14]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [21]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [28]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [35]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [42]
Round 7: (6sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [48]
Rounds 8–9: Sc in all 48 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 10: 3sc in next st, 47sc. [50]
Round 11: 1sc, 3sc in next st, 48sc. [52]
Round 12: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 49sc. [54]
Round 13: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 50sc. [56] (photo 2)

Rounds 14–15: Sc in all 56 sts. [2 rounds]
Next, we will divide the head and neck.
Round 16: 53sc, ch7, skip 3 sts. [53 + 7ch]
Round 17: Skip 12 sts, 41sc, 7sc along the chain. [48] (photo 3)

Round 18: Sc in all 48 sts. [48]
Round 19: (inv dec, 6sc) 6 times. [42]
Round 20: (inv dec, 4sc) 7 times. [35]
Round 21: (inv dec, 3sc) 7 times. [28]
Round 22: (inv dec, 2sc) 7 times. [21]
Round 23: (inv dec, 1sc) 7 times. [14]
Round 24: Inv dec 7 times. [7]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close.
Add the safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13, approximately 14
stitches apart. Add toy stuffing to the head. (photo 4

Neck and body
Carry on in Bright Pink yarn held together with Pink Mohair, with a
3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Join the yarn to the first st of the 7ch gap on the head.
Round 1: 7sc along the chain, 15sc along the free stitches from
Rounds 16 and 17. [22]
Rounds 2–12: Sc in all 22 sts. [11 rounds] (photo 5)

The next section adds some subtle bends to the neck. (photo 6)

Round 13: 2sc, ch8, skip 8sts, 12sc. [22]
Round 14: 2sc, tuck the chain inside the work, 8sc along the skipped
sts from previous round, 12sc. [22]
Round 15: 1sc, ch10, skip 10 sts, 11sc. [22]
Round 16: 1sc, tuck the chain inside of the work, 10sc along the
skipped sts from previous round, 11sc. [22]
Round 17: Ch12, skip 12 sts, 10sc. [22]
Round 18: Tuck the chain inside the work, 12sc along the skipped
sts from previous round, 10sc. [22]
Start adding stuffing as you go.
Rounds 19–36: Sc in all 22 sts. [18 rounds]
Round 37: 5sc, inc in next st, 10sc, inc in next st, 5sc. [24]
Round 38: Sc in all 24 sts. [24]
In the next section, a curve is added that begins the body. Insert a
length of wire into the neck if you want it to be fully poseable.
Round 39: 3sc in next st, 23sc. [26]
Round 40: 1sc, 3sc in next st, 24sc. [28]
Round 41: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 25sc. [30] (photo 7

Round 42: Ch7, skip 7 sts, 1sc, (6sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 1sc.
[33]
Round 43: Tuck the chain inside the work, work into skipped sts from
last round, 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc, 26sc. [35] (photo 8)

Round 44: Ch9, skip 9 sts, 1sc, (inc in next st, 7sc) 3 times, 1sc.
[38]
Round 45: Tuck the chain inside the work, work into skipped sts from
last round, 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc, 29sc. [40]
Round 46: Ch11, skip 11 sts, 1sc, (8sc, inc in next st) 3 times, 1sc.
[43]
Round 47: Tuck the chain inside the work, work into skipped sts from
last round, 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc, 32sc. [45] (photo 9)

Round 48: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 38sc. [47]
Round 49: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 39sc. [49]
Round 50: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 40sc. [51]
Round 51: 9sc, 3sc in next st, 41sc. [53]
Round 52: 10sc, 3sc in next st, 42sc. [55]
Round 53: 11sc, 3sc in next st, 43sc. [57]
Round 54: 12sc, 3sc in next st, 44sc. [59]
Round 55: 13sc, 3sc in next st, 45sc. [61]
Round 56: 14sc, 3sc in next st, 46sc. [63] (photo 10)

Round 57: 12sc in FLO, 7sc in both loops, 44sc. [63]
Rounds 58–59: Sc in all 63 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 60: 13sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 13sc, (inv dec, 6sc) 4 times.
[57]
Round 61: 12sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 40sc. [55]
215 / 309
Round 62: 11sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 11sc, (5sc, inv dec) 4 times.
[49]
Round 63: 10sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 34sc. [47]
Round 64: 9sc, inv dec, 1sc, inv dec, 9sc, (inv dec, 6sc) 3 times.
[42]
Round 65: (inv dec, 4sc) 7 times. [35]
Round 66: (3sc, inv dec) 7 times. [28]
Round 67: (inv dec, 2sc) 7 times. [21]
Add lots of stuffing to the body. (photo 11

Round 68: (1sc, inv dec) 7 times. [14]
Round 69: Inv dec 7 times. [7]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close.
Feet and legs
Make 2, start in Pale Pink yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Sc in all 6 sts. [6]
Round 3: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 4: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 5: Sc in all 14 sts. [14]
Round 6: (3sc, 5sc in next st, 3sc) 2 times. [22]
Round 7: (5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) 2 times. [26]
Round 8: (6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) 2 times. [30]
Round 9: (7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc) 2 times. [34]
Rounds 10–11: Sc in all 34 sts [2 rounds] (photo 12)

Round 12: (7sc, sc3tog, 7sc) 2 times. [30]
Round 13: (6sc, sc3tog, 6sc) 2 times. [26]
Round 14: (5sc, sc3tog, 5sc) 2 times. [22]
Round 15: (4sc, sc3tog, 4sc) 2 times. [18]
Round 16: (3sc, sc3tog, 3sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 17: 3sc in next st, 4sc, 5slst, 4sc. [16]
Round 18: 1sc, 3sc in next st, 14sc. [18]
Round 19: 7sc, sc3tog, 4sc, sc3tog, 1sc. [14]
Round 20: 1sc, sc3tog, 10sc. [12] (photo 13)

Round 21: Sc in all 12 sts. [12]
Round 22: Sc3tog, 9sc. [10]
Round 23: Sc in all 10 sts. [10]
Round 24: Inv dec, 8sc. [9]
Rounds 25–36: Sc in all 9 sts. [12 rounds]
Round 37: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [11]
Round 38: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc. [13]
Round 39: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [15]
Round 40: Sc in all 15 sts. [15]
Round 41: (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times. [12]
Round 42: (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times. [9]
Rounds 43–54: Sc in all 9 sts. [12 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photos 14 and 15)

Cut a piece of garden wire long enough to go into both legs and
through the body, plus about 10cm (4in) extra. (photo 16)

Push the wire through the base of the body, roughly between
Rounds 63 and 64. (photo 17)

Fold the tip of the wire down, then fold it again to create a loop shape
for the foot. (photo 18)

Flatten the loop down and feed it into the leg, then carefully open up
the loop again inside the foot base. Repeat for the other leg. (photos
19 and 20)

Sew the top edge of the legs to the body, making sure that the feet
face forwards. (photo 21)

Pinch the centre of each foot to form a ridge and sew it into place
with running stitch. (photo 22)

Stuff the beak and sew it to the head, between the eyes. (photo 23)

Body feathers
Make 1 in Pink Mohair yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Row 1: Ch1, (ch17, start 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 4hdc, 4dc, 4tr) 45
times, ch1. [45 feathers]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (photos 24 and 25)

The feathers will curl a little; to flatten them out soak them in warm
water and then dry them flat to block.
Right wing feathers
Make 1 in Bright Pink yarn held together with Pink Mohair, with a
3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Row 1: Ch9, start 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 4hdc, ch13, start 2nd ch
from hook, 4sc, 4hdc, 4dc, ch17, start 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 4hdc,
4dc, 4tr, ch1. [3 feathers]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Left wing feathers
Make 1 in Bright Pink yarn held together with Pink Mohair, with a
3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Row 1: Ch17, start 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 4hdc, 4dc, 4tr, ch13, start
2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 4hdc, 4dc, ch9, start 2nd ch from hook, 4sc,
4hdc, ch1. [3 feathers]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 26

Once the body feathers are dry, pin them over the top of the body,
arranging them in a zigzag pattern. Sew them into place with a
matching sewing thread or lace weight mohair yarn. (photos 27, 28
and 29)