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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Home Office Hank Toy Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Materials  Yarn/wool: I have used Catania yarn from Schachenmayr in beige (0263 – 2 x 50g), white (0106 < 50g), black (0110 < 50g), light blue (0247 < 50g), red (0115 < 50g), anthracite (0429 < 50g), brown (0157 < 50g), silver (0172 < 50g), blue (0201 < 50g), Fancy Alize Decofur yarn in brown (00026 < 100g) for the hair and Puppets Eldorado yarn in brown (7359 < 50g) colorfor the beard  Crochet hook: 3.0 mm  Tapestry needle  Filling  Scissors  Two 9 mm black safety eyes  Approx. 210 cm of single core copper PVC-coated electrical wire (diameter: 2,5mm)  Approx. 150 cm of thin wire (diameter: 1,5 mm) to be used for fingers, laptop and headset  Rubber tape (electrician’s tape) 1,5 cm wide to secure wire ends  Pliers for cutting wire  Thicker cardboard for stuffing the slippers

Abbreviations
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
slst – slip stitch
inc – increase (2 sc in next st)
dec – decrease (2 sc worked off together)
hdcinc – half double crochet increase (2 hdc in next st)
(nr) – indicates the total number of stitches in the current row/round
() 2-times – repeat the instruction stated in pharanthesis twice
() 3-times – repeat the instruction stated in pharanthesis 3-times
FO – fasten off

Important Notes
 All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral (except Hank’s eyelids, hair, tie, laptop,
parts of his shirt and slippers). Do not join or turn, unless instructed otherwise
 Using invisible decrease instead of decrease makes the final result nicer
 You may find it useful to use a stitchmarker for counting your rounds
 Take your time to create your Amigurumi’s face, it is a very important part of the
final result
 While stuffing and making the wire frame take care to give each part a nice shape
 You may want to use thinner wire for the fingers, laptop and headset as it can be
bent easier
 Pair 1 strand of brown Puppets Eldorado yarn with 1 strand of beige Catania yarn
for the beard.
Size of finished figure
Using the above metioned yarn and hook Home Office Hank will be 40 cm tall.
Realization
Nose

With beige yarn:
Round 1. ch 7 (7)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 4 sc (= sc in the next 4 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 4 sc (= sc in next 4 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (14)
Round 3. inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (20)
Round 4. sc* (20)
Round 5. (3 sc, dec)* (16)
Round 6. (2 sc, dec)* (12)
Round 7. sc* (12)
slst in next stitch. FO

HEAD

With beige Catania yarn paired with brown Puppets Eldorado yarn:
Round 1. ch 12 (12)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 9 sc (= sc in the next 9 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 9 sc (= sc in next 9 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (24)
Round 3. inc, 9 sc, 3 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc (30)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 9 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 9 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (36)
Round 5. (2 sc, inc), 9 sc, (2 sc, inc) 3-times, 9 sc, (2 sc, inc) 2-times (42)
Round 6. (3 sc, inc), 9 sc, (3 sc, inc) 3-times, 9 sc, (3 sc, inc) 2-times (48)
Round 7. – Round 9. sc* (48)
Round 10. 9 sc, ch2, skip 1, 38 sc (49)
The main body skeleton wire will go through the hole just created.

Round 11. 9 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 38 sc (48)
Round 12. sc* (48)
In next round nose and head will be crocheted together. Stuff the nose. The starting point
will be the 6th stitch afterthe finishing stitch of the nose (see pictures below)

With beige yarn:
Round 13. 31 sc, insert hook through nose and head stitches as you see on the
pictures above: 6 sc, work again on the head stitches: 11 sc (48)
Round 14. 31 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the nose, see
pictures below: 6 sc, work again on the head stitches: 11 sc (48)

Round 15. (6 sc, dec)* (42)
Round 16. – Round 25. sc* (42)
Round 26. (5 sc, dec)* (36)
Round 27. (4 sc, dec)* (30)
In the next step the main head and body skeleton will be created:
In my case the wire for head and body was approximately 140 cm long. Keep the size of the
hook and the gauge of the yarn you are using in mind. You may want to leave the wire rather
a bit longer. Adjust it to the final length, when the size of the body is evident.

Make a loop at the middle part of the wire. This loop should fit exactly into the head. Secure
the loop with the rubber tape. Insert the wire loop into the head as you see on the pictures
below. Start stuffing the head (stuff nicely around the wire) and keep on stuffing while
crocheting. Take care to give it a nice shape!

Round 28. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 29. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 30. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 31. dec* (6)
FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the head.

Eyes
Eyeballs with white yarn (make 2):
Round 1. ch 4 (4)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, sc, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other
side of beginning ch: sc, 2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into
this ch) (8)
Round 3. inc, sc, 3 inc, sc, 2 inc (14)
Round 4. (sc, inc), sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (20)
Round 5. sc* (20)
Round 6. (sc, dec), sc, (sc, dec) 3-times, sc, (sc, dec) 2-times (14)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.
Eyelids with beige yarn (make 2):
Eyelids are crocheted in rows.
Row 1. ch11 (11)
Row 2. starting at second ch from hook: 10 sc, ch 1, turn (10)
Row 3. dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, turn (7)
Row 4. 3 dec, slst, DO NOT TURN!
slst around. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.
Insert the black safety eyes into the eyeball (see pictures above). Sew the eyes with invisible
stitches to the head. For the exact place see the pictures below. Stuff the eyes softly with a
small amount of filling while sewing. Sew the eyelids onto the eyeballs

Hair
Hair is crocheted in two parts: top part and side part.
Top part with brown Fancy Alize Decofur yarn:
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. inc* (12)
Round 3. (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 5. (3 sc, inc)* (30)
Round 6. (4 sc, inc)* (36)
slst in next stitch. FO; leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the top of
the head. See the pictures for the exact place.

Side part is crocheted in rows.
With brown Fancy Alize Decofur yarn:
Row 1. ch 9 (9)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 8 sc, ch1, turn (8)
Row 3. – Round 6. 6 sc, ch1, turn (6)
Row 7. 6 sc, ch 7, turn (13)
Row 8. starting from 2nd chain from hook: sc in next 6 chain stitches, 6 sc,
ch1, turn (12)
Row 9. – Round 20. 12 sc, ch1, turn (12)
Row 21. – Round 24. 6 sc, ch1, turn (6)
Row 25. 6 sc, ch3, turn (9)
Row 26. starting from 2nd chain from hook: sc in next 2 chain stitches, 6 sc,
DO NOT TURN (8)
FO; leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the head. See the pictures for
the exact place.
Comb and cut Hank’s hair as you see on the pictures below. Only the side part needs to be
shortened, move your scissors in vertical direction.

Ears
With beige yarn (make 2):
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. 4 inc, 2 sc (10)
Round 3. (sc, inc) 4-times, slst (13)
FO; leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the head. See the pictures for
the exact place.
Embroider the mouth and eyelines with black yarn. For exact place and position see the
pictures below

Body
With red yarn:
Round 1. ch 6 (6)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 3 sc (= sc in the next 3 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 3 sc (= sc in next 3 ch), 2 sc
into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (12)
Round 3. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 3 sc, (sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (24)
Round 5. sc, ch 2, skip 1, inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc), ch 2, skip 1, sc, inc, (2 sc, inc), 3 sc,
(2 sc, inc) 2-times (32)
The wire for the legs will later go through the holes just created.
Round 6. sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, sc, inc, 3 sc, (3 sc, inc),
sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc), 3 sc,
(3 sc, inc) 2-times (36)
Round 7. (4 sc, inc), 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (4 sc, inc) 2-times (42)
Round 8. (5 sc, inc), 3 sc, (5 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (5 sc, inc) 2-times (48)
Round 9. sc* (48)
Round 10. (6 sc, inc), 3 sc, (6 sc, inc) 3-times, 3 sc, (6 sc, inc) 2-times (54)
Round 11. – Round 18. sc* (54)
With light blue yarn:
Round 19. sc* (54)
Round 20. in back loops: sc* (54)
Round 21. – Round 22. sc* (54)
Round 23. (7 sc, dec)* (48)
Round 24. (6 sc, dec)* (42)
Round 25. (5 sc, dec)* (36)
Round 26. – Round 28. sc* (36)
Round 29. (4 sc, dec)* (30)
Round 30. – Round 32. sc* (30)
Start stuffing the body. Keep on stuffing as you go on.
Round 33. (3 sc, dec)* (24)
Round 34. – Round 38. sc* (24)
Round 39. 3 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 9 sc, ch 2, skip 1, 10 sc (26)
The wire for the arms will later go through the holes just created.
Round 40. 3 sc, sc into the ch2 loop, 9 sc, sc into the ch2 loop, 10 sc (24)
Round 41. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 42. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 43. (sc, dec)* (8)
Round 44. sc* (8)
With beige yarn:
Round 45. – Round 48. sc* (8)
Round 49. (sc, inc)* (12)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the head.
The waist of the shirt is crocheted into the front loops of Round 20.
It is crocheted in rows with light blue yarn:
Row 1. – Round 3. 54 sc, ch1, turn (54)
Row 4. 54 sc (54)
FO. Hide the yarn tail in the body.
Button placket is crocheted in rows with light blue yarn:
Row 1. ch 28 (28)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 27 sc (27)
FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the shirt. See picture above.
Embroider the buttons on the placket with anthracite yarn.
Collaris crocheted in rows.
With light blue yarn:
Row 1. ch 12 (12)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 11 sc, ch1, turn (11)
Row 3. in back loops: 2 hdc, 7 sc, 2 hdc, ch2, turn (11)
Row 4. dc, hdc, 7 sc, hdc, dc, ch1, turn (11)
slst around the collar. FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it with invisible stitches to the shirt.
See pictures above.
Take the head and insert the wire into the body as you see on the picture above. Lead the
legs’ wires through the holes created in Round 5. Take care, that the head looks straight
forward. Sew the body with invisible stitches to the head.

Legs
With beige yarn (make 2):
Round 1. 8 sc in double adjustable ring (do not close the hole and leave a long
yarn tail for sewing it to the body – see pictures) (8)
Round 2. – Round 18. sc* (8)
Round 19. 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 20. – Round 21. sc* (12)
Round 22. 4 dec, 4 sc (8)
Round 23. – Round 36. sc* (8)
Round 37. (sc, inc)* (12)
Round 38. (2 sc, inc)* (16)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the foot. Insert the legs’ wires
into the legs. See pictures above.
Underpants’ Legs
With red yarn (make 2):
Round 1. ch 15, JOIN (15)
Round 2. – Round 3. sc* (15)
Round 4. (4 sc, inc)* (18)
Round 5. sc* (18)
Round 6. (5 sc, inc)* (21)
Round 7. sc* (21)
Round 8. (6 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 9. sc* (24)
Stop working in spiral, work in rows instead:
Row 1. 12 sc, turn (12)
Row 2. skip 1, 10 sc, turn (10)
Row 3. skip 1, 8 sc, turn (8)
Row 4. skip 1, 6 sc, turn (6)
Row 5. skip 1, 4 sc (4)
sc all around, FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the underpants later on.
Crochet around the starting Round of the underpants’ legs with red yarn and sc stitches.
Pull the underpants’ legs over the legs. See pictures below.
Insert the legs’ wires into the legs and sew them to the body. Sew the underpants’ legs with
invisible stitches to the body.

Feet
Feet with beige yarn (make 2):
First toe:
Round 1. 9 sc in double adjustable ring (9)
Round 2. – Round 6. sc* (9)
FO.
Second and third toe:
Round 1. 7 sc in double adjustable ring (7)
Round 2. – Round 5. sc* (7)
FO.
Fourth toe:
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. – Round 4. sc* (6)
Do not fasten off, but continue crocheting the foot as follows.
Round 5. Right foot: sc in next 3 st of the fourth toe, sc in next 3 st of the third toe,
sc in next 3 st of the second toe, sc in all 9 st of the first toe, sc in next
4 st of the second toe, sc in next 4 st of the third toe, sc in the last
3 remaining st of the fourth toe
Left foot: sc in next 3 st of the fourth toe, sc in next 4 st of the third toe,
sc in next 4 st of the second toe, sc in all 9 st of the first toe, sc in next
3 st of the second toe, sc in next 3 st of the third toe, sc in the last
3 remaining st of the fourth toe (29)
Round 6. Right foot: (2 sc, dec), (sc, dec) 2-times, 6 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) 2-times, sc, dec
Left foot: (2 sc, dec) 3-times, 6 sc, dec, (sc, dec) 3-times (22)
Round 7. – Round 18. sc* (22)
Stuff the toes.
Create the foot loop at the end of the leg’s wire as you see on the pictures below. It should
fit exactly into the foot. Secure the loop with rubber tape. Put the foot onto the wire frame.
Round 19. Right foot: 18 sc, ch 2 (this opening has to surround the leg’s wire, see
pictures below), skip 1 stitch, 3 sc
Left foot: 8 sc, ch 2 (this opening has to surround the leg’s wire, see
pictures below), skip 1 stitch, 13 sc (23)
Stuff the foot nicely around the wire. Take care to give it a nice shape.
Round 20. Right foot: 18 sc, sc in the ch 2 loop from last round, 3 sc
Left foot: 8 sc, sc in the ch 2 loop from last round, 13 sc (22)
Round 21. sc* (22)
Round 22. sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 8 sc (20)
Round 23. (dec, 8 sc) 2-times (18)
Keep on stuffing as you go on.
Round 24. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 25. dec* (6)
FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the foot.
Sew the leg with invisible stitches to the foot using the yarn tail left on the leg. See pictures
above

Arms
Cut a piece of wire for the arms. In my case the wire was approx. 80 cm long. You may
want to leave it a little longer as the exact size can be adjusted later. Insert the wire into
the body through the two holes created in Round 39, as you see on the picture above.
Arms with blue yarn (make 2):
Round 1. 8 sc in double adjustable ring (do not pull it tight, but leave a long
yarn tail for sewing it to the body) (8)
Round 2. – Round 21. sc* (8)
Round 22. 4 inc, 4 sc (12)
Round 23. – Round 24. sc* (12)
Stuff the elbow softly.
Round 25. 4 dec, 4 sc (8)
Round 26. – Round 37. sc* (8)
Round 38. (sc, inc)* (12)
With beige yarn:
Round 39. in back loops: sc* (12)
Round 40. (3 sc, inc)* (15)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the hand.
Cuff is crocheted in rows with light blue yarn (make 2):
Row 1. in front loops of Round 39: 12 sc, ch4, turn (12)
Row 2. starting from the 2nd ch from hook in chain stitches: 3 sc, 12 sc, ch1, turn (15)
Row 3. 15 sc (15)
FO. Weave the yarn tail into the arm.
Insert the arms’ wire into the arms. Insert it carefully, so that the elbow stuffing remains in
its place. Sew the arms with invisible stitches to the body. Hide the yarn tail in the body.

Hands
Hands with beige yarn (make 2):
Make the 4 fingers/thumb for a hand as follows:
Round 1. 5 sc in double adjustable ring (5)
Round 2. – Round 7. sc* (5)
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends on the first 3 fingers. Do not fasten off on the fourth
finger. Now put aside one finger and continue working on the one not fastened off.
Round 8. Right hand: sc in next 2 st of the first finger, sc in next 2 st of the
second finger, sc in all 5 st of the third finger, sc in next 3 st of the
second finger, sc in the last 3 remaining st of the first finger
Left hand: sc in next 3 st of the first finger, sc in next 3 st of the
second finger, sc in all 5 st of the third finger, sc in next 2 st of the
second finger, sc in the last 2 remaining st of the first finger (15)
Round 9. – Round 10. sc* (15)
In next round crochet the thumb with 2 sc to the hand as well:
Round 11. Right hand: 5 sc, take the thumb and align it with the hand, insert
hook through the thumb and hand stitches, as you see on the pictures
above: 2 sc, work into the hand stitches again: 8 sc
Left hand: 9 sc, take the thumb and align it with the hand, insert
hook through the thumb and hand stitches, as you see on the pictures
above: 2 sc, crochet in hand stitches again: 4 sc (15)
Round 12. Right hand: 5 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the
thumb, see pictures above: 3 sc, work in hand stitches again: 8 sc
Left hand: 9 sc, insert hook through the remaining stitches of the
thumb, see pictures above: 3 sc, work in hand stitches again: 4 sc (16)
Round 13. (dec, 6 sc)* (14)
Round 14. sc* (14)
FO. Adjust the length of the arm’s wire. It is supposed to lead into the pointerfinger. Make
a loop at the end and flatten it. Make it fit into the finger. Cut small pieces of wire (it might
be thinner wire, than the rest of the body skeleton) in order to form the hand’s skeleton.
Secure them with rubber tape to the arm’s wire. See pictures for exact form and position.
Insert the hand’s wire into the hand. Sew the arm to the hand above the last round of the
hand. Hide the yarn tail in the hand. Embroider buttons on the cuff with anthracite yarn.

Underpants
Embroider the pattern on the underpants with white yarn. See pictures below.

Tie
Tie is crocheted in rows with anthracite yarn:
Row 1. ch 2 (2)
Row 2. 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook, ch, turn (2)
Row 3. 2 inc, ch, turn (4)
Row 4. 4 sc, ch, turn (4)
Row 5. 2 dec, ch, turn (2)
Row 6. – Row 24. 2 sc, ch, turn (2)
Row 25. 2 sc, DO NOT TURN! (2)
slst around. FO. Weave the yarn tail into the tie.
Knot is crocheted in rows with anthracite yarn:
Row 1. ch 7 (7)
Row 2. starting at 2nd chain from hook: 6 sc, ch, turn (6)
Row 3. 6 sc, DO NOT TURN (6)
FO. Leave a long yarn tail and sew it around the upper end of the tie. See second picture
above.
Band is crocheted in rows with anthracite yarn:
Row 1. ch 16 (16)
Row 2. starting at 2nd chain from hook: 15 slst (15)
FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Lead it around Hank’s neck underneath the collar. Sew it to the
tie’s knot. See pictures below.

Slippers
Slippers are made out of three parts: lower part of the sole, upper part of the sole, strap.
Lower part of the sole with brown yarn (make 2):
Round 1. ch 15 (15)
Round 2. sc in second ch from hook, 12 sc (= sc in the next 12 ch), 3 sc in last ch.
Continue on the other side of beginning ch: 12 sc (= sc in next 12 ch),
2 sc into the last ch (you made the first sc into this ch) (30)
Round 3. inc, 12 sc, 3 inc, 12 sc, 2 inc (36)
Round 4. (sc, inc), 8 sc, 4 hdc, (hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 4 hdc, 8 sc, (sc, inc) 2-times (42)
Round 5. (2 sc, inc), 8 sc, 4 hdc, (2 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 4 hdc, 8 sc,
(2 sc, inc) 2-times (48)
Round 6. (3 sc, inc), 8 sc, 4 hdc, (3 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 4 hdc, 8 sc,
(3 sc, inc) 2-times (54)
Round 7. (4 sc, inc), 8 sc, 4 hdc, (4 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 4 hdc, 8 sc,
(4 sc, inc) 2-times (60)
Round 8. (5 sc, inc), 8 sc, 4 hdc, (5 hdc, hdcinc) 3-times, 4 hdc, 8 sc,
(5 sc, inc) 2-times (66)
Round 9. in back loops: sc* (66)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail.
Upper part of the sole is crocheted exactly the same way, but FO after Round 8.
Cut some thicker cardboard in the exact form of the sole. Insert it into the lower part. Sew
the upper part to the lower one.
Strap is crocheted in rows with brown yarn (make 2):
Row 1. ch 31 (31)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 30 hdc (30)
FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Sew it with a few stitches to the sole.

Headset
Left speaker with black yarn:
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. inc* (12)
Round 3. in back loops: (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 5. in back loop: sc* (24)
Round 6. – Round 7. sc* (24)
Round 8. ch2, skip 1, 23 sc (25)
The wire for the headset will go through the hole just created.
Cut a piece of thinner wire for the skeleton of the headset. In my case it was approximately
60 cm long. Keep the size of the hook and the gauge of the yarn you are using in mind. You
may want to leave the wire rather a bit longer. Adjust it to the final length, when the size of
the headset is evident.
Make a loop at the middle part of the wire. This loop should fit exactly into the speaker.
Secure the loop with the rubber tape. Insert the wire loop into the speaker as you see on
the pictures below. Start stuffing the speaker (stuff nicely around the wire) and keep on
stuffing while crocheting.
Round 9. sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 23 sc (24)
Round 10. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 11. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 12. dec* (6)
FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the speaker.
Headband with black yarn:
Round 1. 8 sc in double adjustable ring (8)
Round 2. – Round 49. sc* (8)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Lead the headset’s wire into the headband and
sew it with invisible stitches to the left speaker.
Right speaker with black yarn:
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (6)
Round 2. inc* (12)
Round 3. in back loops: (sc, inc)* (18)
Round 4. (2 sc, inc)* (24)
Round 5. in back loop: sc* (24)
Round 6. – Round 7. sc* (24)
Form the right speaker’s loop from one wire end. It should fit into the speaker nicely. The
other end will create the microphone as you see on the pictures below. Secure the wire loop
with rubber tape and insert it into the right speaker.
Round 8. ch2 (this opening has to surround the headband’s wire, see pictures
above), skip 1 stitch, 13 sc, ch 2 (this opening has to surround the
microphone’s wire, see pictures), skip 1 stitch,9 sc (26)
Round 9. sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 13 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop
from previous round, 9 sc (24)
Stuff the right speaker and keep on stuffing as you go on.
Round 10. (2 sc, dec)* (18)
Round 11. (sc, dec)* (12)
Round 12. dec* (6)
FO. Close the hole by leading the thread through the front loops of last round, pull it tight
and weave the yarn tail into the speaker. Sew the head band with invisible stitches to the
right speaker.
Shorten the microphone’s wire to the preferred size, bend it back a bit and flatten the end
of it. Put some superglue on the microphone’s wire and wrap it up with black yarn.
Bend the headset so, that it fits to the head of Hank.

Laptop
Keyboard part is crocheted in rows with black yarn:
Row 1. ch 26 (26)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 25 sc, ch1, turn (25)
Row 3. – Row 21. 25 sc, ch1, turn (25)
With silver yarn:
Row 22. in back loops: 5 sc, ch2, skip 1, 13 sc, ch2, skip 1, 5 sc (27)
The wire frame will go through the holes just created.
Row 23. 5 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round , 13 sc, sc into the 2 ch
loop from previous round, 5 sc, ch1, turn (25)
Row 24. – Row 40. 25 sc, ch, turn (25)
Row 41. 25 sc, DO NOT TURN! (25)
FO. sc around with black yarn. Leave a long yarn tail.
Start to create the wire frame at this point:
Cut a piece of thinner wire. In my case it was approximately 80 cm long. Keep the size of the
hook and the gauge of the yarn you are using in mind. You may want to leave the wire rather
a bit longer. Adjust it to the final length, when the size of the laptop is evident.
Make a square frame at the middle part of the wire. It should fit exactly into the keyboard
part. Secure it with the rubber tape. Fold the keyboard part in half and insert the wire loop
into the keyboard as you see on the pictures above. The wire ends should go through the
holes created in Row 22. Sew the two layers with invisible stitches to each other.
Join with black yarn (make 2):
Round 1. 6 sc in double adjustable ring (do not close the hole and leave a long
yarn tail for sewing it to the monitor part) (6)
Round 2. sc* (6)
slst in next stitch. FO. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing it to the keyboard part later on. Pull
the joins onto the wire ends coming out from the keyboard.
Monitor part is crocheted in rows with black yarn:
Row 1. ch 26 (26)
Row 2. starting from 2nd chain from hook: 25 sc, ch1, turn (25)
Row 3. – Row 21. 25 sc, ch1, turn (25)
Row 22. in back loops: 5 sc, ch2, skip 1, 13 sc, ch2, skip 1, 5 sc (27)
The wire frame will go through the holes just created.
Row 23. 5 sc, sc into the 2 ch loop from previous round, 13 sc, sc into the 2 ch
loop from previous round, 5 sc, ch1, turn (25)
With blue yarn:
Row 24. – Row 40. 25 sc, ch, turn (25)
With black yarn:
Row 41. 25 sc, DO NOT TURN! (25)
sc along the 4 edges. FO. Leave a long yarn tail. Embroider the screen with white yarn (e.g.
the http status code “404” or any other messages), as you see on the pictures below. Fold
it in half and lead the two wire ends through the holes created in Row 22.
Create a frame that fits exactly into the monitor. With the black yarn tail sew the two layers
together (along the three open edges).
Sew the joins with invisible stitches to the monitor part.
Embroider the keyboard with black yarn, as you see on the picture below.


CONGRATULATIONS! Home Office Hank is ready !!