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Amigurumi Love Fairy Doll Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi, Amigurumi Love Fairy Doll Free Crochet Pattern Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS REQUIRED (DESCRIPTIONS IN BRACKETS INDICATE THOSE USED IN THE PICTURED EXAMPLE):

  1. Yarn (Krea Deluxe Organic Cotton 50 g yarn in (A) Colour 01 or White, (B) Colour 08 or Light Pink, (C) Colour 12 or Medium Pink, (D)
    Colour 13 or Dark Pink, (E) Colour 30 or Brown, (F) Colour 46 or Beige). One ball of each colour is sufficient.
  2. Crochet hook in accordance with the yarn you use (2.5 mm hook)
  3. Fibrefill / toy stuffing
  4. 6 mm black plastic safety eyes
  5. Black (#310) embroidery thread (DMC Six Strand Cotton Thread)
  6. Stitch markers, darning and embroidery needles
  7. Cosmetic blusher with brush
  8. Wooden skewer (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS:

BLO = back loop only | ch = chain | dc = double crochet | dc-inc = double crochet increase
dec = decrease | FLO = front loop only | hdc = half double crochet | hdc-inc = half double crochet increase | inc = increase | rnd = round | sc = single crochet | sl st = slip stitch | st = stitch

A VERY QUICK GUIDE TO THE CROCHET STITCHES USED IN THIS PATTERN:

  1. Chain (ch): Insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through loop on hook.
  2. Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch (there should be 3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop
    through both loops left on hook (there should be 2 loops left on hook), yarn over, pull loop through remaining loop on hook.
  3. Double crochet increase (dc-inc): Work two double crochets into the same stitch.
  4. Decrease (dec): I prefer the “invisible” decrease unless your fabric will be visible from both sides. For the invisible decrease, insert
    hook into front loop of first stitch (from the front and under). Repeat into front loop of next stitch. Yarn over and pull loop through two
    loops on hook, yarn over and pull loop through two loops on hook.
  5. Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch (there should be 3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull
    loop through all three loops on the hook.
  6. Half double crochet increase (hdc-inc): Work two half double crochets into the same stitch.
  7. Increase (inc): Work two single crochets into the same stitch.
  8. Magic ring: Wrap yarn around fingers to form a loop. Insert hook through middle of loop. Pull working end of yarn through ring and chain
    the required number of stitches through. Pull the yarn ends to close the loop.
  9. Single crochet (sc): Insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch (there should be 2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop through both
    loops on hook.
  10. Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook, yarn over, pull loop through stitch and loop on hook.

HEAD
(IN COLOUR 46, BEIGE)
Starting from the top of the head.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 6 [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc in each of next 4 st, inc in next st) x 6 [36]
Rnd 7: (Sc in each of next 5 st, inc in next st) x 6 [42]
Rnd 8: (Sc in each of next 6 st, inc in next st) x 6 [48]
Rnd 9: (Sc in each of next 7 st, inc in next st) x 6 [54]
Rnd 10: (Sc in each of next 8 st, inc in next st) x 6 [60]
Rnd 11-20: Sc in all 60 st [60]
Rnd 21: (Sc in each of next 8 st, dec) x 6 [54]
Rnd 22: (Sc in each of next 7 st, dec) x 6 [48]
Rnd 23: (Sc in each of next 6 st, dec) x 6 [42]
Rnd 24: (Sc in each of next 5 st, dec) x 6 [36]
Rnd 25: (Sc in each of next 4 st, dec) x 6 [30]

Insert 6 mm plastic safety eyes between rounds 18 and
19, 11 stitches apart (Picture 1). Before attaching the
backs of the eyes, use a single strand of black thread to
sew two eyelashes per eye over round 18 (Picture 2).
Rnd 26: (Sc in each of next 3 st, dec) x 6 [24]
Start stuffing the head firmly with fibrefill.
Rnd 27: (Sc in each of next 2 st, dec) x 6 [18]
Rnd 28: (Sc in next st, dec) x 6 [12]
Finish stuffing the head firmly with fibrefill.
Rnd 29: Dec x 6 [6]

Sl st in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail. After
round 29, thread the tail through a needle. Weave the
needle through the front loop of each of the 6 stitches,
going in the direction from the centre and under the
front loop. Pull the yarn tail and the hole should close.
Insert the needle through the middle of the hole and
pull through the head. Fasten off, weave the yarn tail in.

HAIR
(IN COLOUR 30, BROWN)
Starting from the top of the hair.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 6 [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc in each of next 4 st, inc in next st) x 6 [36]
Rnd 7: (Sc in each of next 5 st, inc in next st) x 6 [42]
Rnd 8: (Sc in each of next 6 st, inc in next st) x 6 [48]
Rnd 9: (Sc in each of next 7 st, inc in next st) x 6 [54]
Rnd 10: (Sc in each of next 8 st, inc in next st) x 6 [60]
Rnd 11-18: Sc in all 60 st [60]
We will crochet the rest of the hair in rows.
Row 19: Sc in each of next 59 st [59]. Leave the
remaining stitch unworked

Mark the last unworked stitch of round 18 with a stitch
marker (Picture 3). Do not remove this marker till the
end of the hair.
Row 20: Turn, starting in the 2nd stitch from hook
(Picture 4), sc in each of next 56 st, dec [57]
Row 21:
Turn, sc in the 2nd st from hook, hdc in next st, hdc-inc
in next st, dc-inc in next st, dc in next st, dc-inc in next
st, hdc in each of next 2 st, sc in each of next 2 st.
Ch 9 (Picture 5), working back down this chain (Pictures
5, 6), starting in the 2nd chain from hook, (sc in next ch,
inc in next st) x 4 (Picture 6), sc back into the same stitch
in Row 20 from which the chain 9 emerged (Pictures 7,
8).
Sc in next st, ch 11, working back down this chain,
starting in the 2nd chain from hook, (sc in next ch, inc in
next st) x 5, sc back into the same stitch in Row 20 from
which the chain 11 emerged.
Sc in each of next 40 st.
Ch 9, working back down this chain, starting in the 2nd
chain from hook, (sc in next ch, inc in next st) x 4, sc
back into the same stitch in Row 20 from which the
chain 9 emerged.
Hdc in next st, dc-inc in each of next 2 st, hdc in next st,
sc in next st.
Sl st in the marked unworked stitch of round 18 (Pictures
9, 10) [104].
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing the hair to the
head.

HAIR BUN X 2
(IN COLOUR 30, BROWN)
Starting from the top of the hair bun.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 5 st, inc in next st) x 4 [28]
Rnd 6-8: Sc in all 28 st [28]
Rnd 9: (Sc in each of next 5 st, dec) x 4 [24]
Sl st in next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing
the hair bun to the hair. Stuff the bun firmly with fibrefill.

LEG X 2
(START IN COLOUR 13, DARK PINK)
LEFT LEG
Starting from the base of the leg.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 11 st, inc in next st) x 2 [26]
Rnd 6-9: Sc in all 26 st [26]
Rnd 10: Sc in each of next 9 st, dec x 4, sc in each of
next 9 st [22]
Rnd 11: Sc in each of next 7 st, dec x 4, sc in each of
next 7 st [18]
Change to Colour 01, White, yarn
Rnd 12: Into BLO, sc in each of next 7 st, dec x 2, sc in
each of next 7 st [16]

Rnd 13: Sc in all 16 st [16]
Start stuffing the foot (rounds 1 to 13) firmly with
fibrefill. Continue stuffing as you crochet the rest of the
leg. Change to Colour 46, Beige, yarn.
Rnd 14: Into BLO, sc in each of next 8 st, inc in next st,
sc in each of next 7 st [17]
Rnd 15: Sc in each of next 9 st, inc in next st, sc in each
of next 7 st [18]
Rnd 16: Sc in each of next 8 st, inc in each of next 2 st,
sc in each of next 8 st [20]
Rnd 17: Sc in each of next 10 st [10]. Leave the remaining
stitches unworked
Mark the 10th stitch of round 17 to help with joining the
legs. Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew up any gaps
between the legs. Finish stuffing the leg with fibrefill.

RIGHT LEG
Starting from the base of the leg.


Rnd 1-17: Repeat as for left leg
Stuff the leg firmly with fibrefill. After round 17, do not
fasten off as we will continue working into the body.
However before we do this, we will first crochet the
cuffs of the shoes and socks.

CUFF OF SHOE X 2
(IN COLOUR 13, DARK PINK)
Starting from the base of the cuff of the shoe.


Hold the leg with the foot pointing towards you (Picture
11). Pull up a loop of Colour 13, Dark Pink, yarn in the
first front loop left from round 11 of the leg.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, starting in the same st in which you joined
the yarn, into FLO, sl st in all 18 st. Keep the stitches
relatively loose so that you can work back into the first
sl st of the round [18]
Sl st in the first st of round 1. Fasten off and weave in all
the yarn tails.

CUFF OF SOCK X 2
(IN COLOUR 01, WHITE)
Starting from the base of the cuff of the sock.

Hold the leg with the foot pointing towards you (Picture
12). Pull up a loop of Colour 01, White, yarn in the first
front loop left from round 13 of the leg.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, starting in the same st in which you joined
the yarn, into FLO, sc in all 16 st [16]
Sl st in the first sc of round 1. Fasten off and weave in all
the yarn tails.

BODY
(START IN COLOUR 46, BEIGE)
Starting from the bottom of the body and continuing
from the end of round 17 of the right leg.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, starting in the stitch after the marked stitch
at the end of the left leg (Picture 13, should be 11th
stitch of round 16 of the left leg), sc in each of next 20
st around the left leg, sc in one edge of each of next 4
ch (Picture 14), sc in each of next 20 around the right
leg [48]

Rnd 2: Sc in unworked edge of each of next 4 ch (Picture
15), sc in each of next 44 st [48]
Rnd 3-4: Sc in all 48 st [48]
Use the end yarn tail from the left leg to sew up any
gaps where you joined the legs (Picture 16) and weave
in the yarn tail.
Rnd 5-14: Sc in all 48 st [48]
After round 14, sc in each of next 5 st. The 5th extra
sc made becomes the new end of the round. This is to
bring the working yarn to the back centre of the body
so that the colour change line falls here (Picture 17).
Adjust the number of stiches required for this if needed
as this can vary based on your stitch tension.

Change to Colour 01, White, yarn.
Rnd 15: (Sc in each of next 14 st, dec) x 3 [45]
Rnd 16: Into BLO, sc in each of next 6 st, dec, (sc in each
of next 13 st, dec) x 2, sc in each of next 7 st [42]
Rnd 17: Sc in each of next 3 st, dec, (sc in each of next
12 st, dec) x 2, sc in each of next 9 st [39]
Rnd 18: Sc in each of next 5 st, dec, (sc in each of next
11 st, dec) x 2, sc in each of next 6 st [36]
Start stuffing the body firmly, especially where the legs
meet the body. Continue stuffing with fibrefill as you
crochet the rest of the body.
Rnd 19: Sc in each of next 9 st, dec, (sc in each of next
10 st, dec) x 2, sc in next st [33]
Rnd 20: Sc in each of next 3 st, dec, (sc in each of next
9 st, dec) x 2, sc in each of next 6 st [30]
Rnd 21: Sc in each of next 6 st, dec, (sc in each of next
8 st, dec) x 2, sc in each of next 2 st [27]
Rnd 22: (Sc in each of next 7 st, dec) x 3 [24]
After round 22, sc in each of next 2 st. The 2nd extra
sc made becomes the new end of the round. This is to
bring the working yarn to the back centre of the body
so that the colour change line falls here (Picture 17).
Adjust the number of stiches required for this if needed
as this can vary based on your stitch tension.
Change to Colour 46, Beige, yarn.
Rnd 23: Into BLO, (sc in each of next 6 st, dec) x 3 [21]
Sl st in next st. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing
the body to the head.
Finish stuffing the body firmly with fibrefill.

SKIRT
(IN COLOUR 01, WHITE)
Starting from the top of the skirt.

Hold the body with the opening pointing towards you
(Picture 18). Pull up a loop of Colour 01, White, yarn
in the last front loop left from round 15 of the body
(Picture 18).
The skirt is worked in joined rounds.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, starting in the same st in which you joined
the yarn, into FLO, (dc in each of next 4 st, dc-inc in next
st) x 9 [54]
Rnd 2: Sl st in first dc of round 1, ch 2, starting in the
same st in which the sl st was made, (dc in each of next
5 st, dc-inc in next st) x 9 [63]
Rnd 3: Sl st in first dc of round 2, ch 2, starting in the
same st in which the sl st was made, (dc in each of next
6 st, dc-inc in next st) x 9 [72]
Rnd 4: Sl st in first dc of round 3, ch 2, starting in the
same st in which the sl st was made, (dc in each of next
5 st, dc-inc in next st) x 12 [84]
Rnd 5: Sl st in first dc of round 4, ch 2, starting in the
same st in which the sl st was made, dc in all 84 st [84]
We will next work the border of the skirt.

Rnd 6: Starting in the first dc of round 5, (sc in next st,
ch 3, sc back in same st (Pictures 19, 20), sc in next st)
x 42. For the last stitch of round 6, do a sl st instead of
sc [252]
Fasten off and weave in all the yarn tails.

COLLAR
(IN COLOUR 01, WHITE)
Starting from the base of the collar.

Hold the body with the opening pointing away from you.
Pull up a loop of Colour 01, White, yarn in the first front
loop left from round 22 of the body (Picture 21).
Rnd 1: Sc back in same st to which you joined the yarn,
ch 3, sc back in same st, sc in next st, (sc in next st, ch 3,
sc back in same st, sc in next st) x 11. For the last stitch
of round 1, do a sl st instead of sc [71]
Fasten off and weave in all the yarn tails

PATTERN ON BODICE OF DRESS
(IN COLOUR 13, DARK PINK)
Starting from the front middle of the bodice.

Using Colour 13, Dark Pink, yarn, sew “V” stitches over
rounds 17, 19 and 21 of the body (Picture 22).
The top of each “V” should be 1 stitch wide, with each
“V” sewn over a single round (Picture 23).

It is recommended you start the pattern from the front
centre of round 21 of the body (Pictures 22, 23). The
top of each “V” should be approximately 3 stitches
away from the neighbouring “V” (Picture 22).
For all remaining rounds (that is rounds 17 and 19),
stagger each “V” between two “V”s in the round above
(Picture 22).

ARM X 2
(START IN COLOUR 46, BEIGE)
Starting from the tip of the arm.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 3 [15]
Rnd 4: Sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 5: Dec x 2, sc in each of next 7 st, dec x 2 [11]
Rnd 6: Dec, sc in each of next 7 st, dec [9]
Stuff the hand (rounds 1 to 6 firmly with fibrefill) and
with gradually less up the arm.
Rnd 7-12: Sc in all 9 st [9]
After round 12, sc in each of next 2 st. The 2nd extra
sc made becomes the new end of the round. This is to
bring the working yarn to the inner side of the arm.
Rnd 13: 3 sc all into each of next 9 st [27]
Rnd 14: Sc in all 27 st [27]
Rnd 15: (Sc in next st, dec) x 9 [18]
Rnd 16: Dec x 9 [9]
Rnd 17: Sc in each of next 3 st [3]. Leave the remaining
stitches unworked
Finish stuffing the sleeve lightly with fibrefill so that the
sleeve looks “puffy”.
Flatten the opening of the arm and sc in each of next 4
st through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off
and leave a long tail for sewing the arm to the body.

WING X 2
(IN COLOUR 04, YELLOW)
Starting from the tip of the wing.

Rnd 1: Start 4 sc in a magic ring [4]
Rnd 2: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 2 [6]
Rnd 3: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 2 [8]
Rnd 4: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 4 [12]
Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 2 st, inc in next st) x 4 [16]
Rnd 6: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 4 [20]
Rnd 7: (Sc in each of next 4 st, inc in next st) x 4 [24]
Rnd 8: (Sc in each of next 3 st, inc in next st) x 6 [30]
Rnd 9-10: Sc in all 30 st [30]
Rnd 11: (Sc in each of next 3 st, dec) x 6 [24]
Rnd 12: (Sc in each of next 4 st, dec) x 4 [20]
Rnd 13: Sc in all 20 st [20]
Rnd 14: (Sc in each of next 8 st, dec) x 2 [18]
Rnd 15: Sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 16: (Sc in each of next 7 st, dec) x 2 [16]
Rnd 17: (Sc in each of next 6 st, dec) x 2 [14]
Rnd 18: (Sc in each of next 5 st, dec) x 2 [12]
Rnd 19: (Sc in each of next 4 st, dec) x 2 [10]
Do not stuff the wing.
Flatten the opening of the wing and sc in each of next 5
st through both layers to close the opening.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the wing to
the body.

HEART
(IN COLOUR 13, DARK PINK)
SIDE 1
Starting from the top of side 1 of the heart.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in all 6 st [6]
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: Sc in all 18 st [18]
Rnd 5: (Sc in each of next 5 st, inc in next st) x 3 [21]
Mark the 21st stitch of round 5 to guide the joining of
the two sides. Fasten off leaving a long yarn tail to sew
up any gaps between the two sides when you crochet
the rest of the heart.

SIDE 2
Starting from the top of side 2 of the heart.

Rnd 1-5: Repeat as for side 1
After round 5, do not fasten off as we will continue
working the rest of the heart.

REST OF HEART

Rnd 6: Starting in the stitch after the marked stitch at
the end of side 1 (Picture 24, should be 1st stitch of
round 5 of side 1), sc in each of next 21 st around side
1, starting in the first stitch of round 5 of side 2 (Picture
25), sc in each of next 21 st around side 2 [42]
Rnd 7: (Sc in each of next 12 st, dec) x 3 [39]
Rnd 8: (Sc in each of next 11 st, dec) x 3 [36]
Rnd 9: (Sc in each of next 4 st, dec) x 6 [30]
Rnd 10: (Sc in each of next 3 st, dec) x 6 [24]

Use the end yarn tail from side 1 of the heart to sew up
any gaps where you joined the two sides (Picture 26)
and weave in the yarn tail.
Rnd 11: (Sc in each of next 2 st, dec) x 6 [18]
Rnd 12: (Sc in each of next 4 st, dec) x 3 [15]
Rnd 13: (Sc in each of next 3 st, dec) x 3 [12]
Start stuffing the heart firmly with fibrefill. Continue
stuffing as you crochet the remainder of the heart.
Rnd 14: (Sc in each of next 2 st, dec) x 3 [9]
Rnd 15: Sc in each of next 7 st, dec [8]
Sl st in next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing
the heart to the stem.

STEM
(IN COLOUR 08, LIGHT PINK)
Starting from the base of the stem.

Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a magic ring [6]
Rnd 2-13: Sc in all 6 st [6]
Before finishing the stem, insert a wooden skewer into
the stem (Picture 27) and cut the skewer slightly shorter
than the length of the stem.
If you do not wish to use a wooden skewer, you can stuff
the stem firmly with fibrefill instead.
Sl st in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail.
After round 13, thread the tail through a needle. Weave
the needle through the front loop of each of the 6
stitches, always going in the direction from the centre
and under the front loop. Pull the yarn tail and the hole
should close. Insert the needle through the middle
of the hole and pull through the stem. Fasten off and
either weave the yarn tail in or leave a long yarn tail to
sew the heart balloon to the hand if you wish.

ASSEMBLING THE HEART BALLOON

Insert the finishing (at round 13) end of the stem into
the opening at the bottom of the heart (Picture 28). If
you are struggling to fit it in, you can use a blunt object
(e.g. outer edges of a pair of scissors) to spread the
opening of the heart prior to inserting the stem (Picture
29).
Sew the base of the heart between rounds 9 and 10 of
the stem (Picture 28).

ROSE X 5
(2 X COLOUR 13 DARK PINK, 2 X COLOUR 12
MEDIUM PINK, 1 X COLOUR 08 LIGHT PINK)
Starting from the base of the rose.

Ch 26. Work in rows starting with a long yarn tail.
Row 1: Start in the 5th ch from hook , (hdc in next ch, ch
2, hdc back into the same ch, ch 2 and skip next 2 ch)
x 7, hdc in last ch, ch 2, hdc back into the same ch [49]
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, (5 dc into the next ch2-space
(Pictures 30, 31), sc in next ch2-space) x 2, (7 dc into
the next ch2-space, sc in next ch2-space) x 3, (9 dc into
the next ch2-space, sc in next ch2-space) x 3 (Pictures
30, 31) [66]
Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail. When working row
2, the side that is facing you is the “outer” side. After
fastening off and with the “outer” side facing you, roll
the rose (at the end where row 2 began) away from you
(Picture 32). Use the starting yarn tail to sew the base
of the rose securely together so that it does not unravel.
Use the end yarn tail to do the same (Pictures 33).

ASSEMBLY

  1. Sew the opening of the body over rounds 27 to 29
    of the bottom of the head (Picture 34). Tilt the head
    slightly if you wish to give your fairy a cuter look.
  2. Sew the arms to between rounds 22 and 23 of the
    body, with the front corners 7 stitches apart across the
    front (Picture 35).
  3. Sew the hair to the head. The back edge of the hair
    should fall between rounds 23 and 24 of the back of the
    head (Picture 36). The front “peak” of the hair should
    fall between rounds 13 and 14 of the head (Picture
    37) with the tendrils evenly on either side of the eyes.
    Only sew a few evenly spaced stitches around the hair
    between rounds 19 and 20 to attach the hair to the head
    (Picture 38, dashed lines). This will avoid puckering of
    the hair. Leave the “fringe” unattached to the head.
  4. Sew the buns to the hair. The base of each bun should
    be sewn over rounds 7 to 16 of the hair (Pictures 39). It
    is recommended you place pins between rounds 6 and
    7 of the hair 14 stitches apart, and between rounds 16
    and 17 of the hair 24 stitches apart (Picture 40). Nestle
    each bun against these pins and sew to the hair.
  1. Sew the wings to the body with the flat edges sewn
    over rounds 17 to 21 vertically down the back of the
    body, approximately 5 stitches apart if you count
    between rounds 21 and 22 (Picture 41). Sew extra
    stitches along the length of the underside of each wing
    to hold the wings against the body (Picture 42)
  2. Sew the roses over the top of the hair, in front of the
    buns (Picture 43).
  3. Sew the heart balloon to one hand if preferred.
  4. Apply cosmetic blusher to the cheeks, on either side
    of her eyes, with a brush.

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