Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

Don’t forget to subscribe to receive notifications of our new free recipes.

Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Merida Doll and Triplet Bears Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS;

✔ Yarns inthe colors: white, off
white, two shades of brown
(medium and dark),petrol blue,
orange, beige;
✔ 2,2mm and 2,5mm crochet
hook;
✔ Sewingneedle (tapestry
needle);
✔ Onepair of 9mm safety eyes;
✔ Wire;
✔ Black orgray and brownfelt;
✔ Pins;
✔ Glue;
✔ Stuffing.

Iused yarns from brazilian
brands called:
AmigurumiSoft: Tijolo (4140)
and Craft (7062);
Balloon: Itaparica (5208),
Branco (0002), BlueStar
(5517), Marrom (0716), Raiz
(7762), Natural (0001).

I got an amigurumi
with about
16cm

Using a 2,25mm
needle, square stitch
and with a tight
tension

ABBREVIATIONS;

MR: magic ring
ch: chain
sc: single crochet stitch
slst: slip crochet stitch
inc: increase
3sc-inc: 3sc onthe same stitchto make anincrease
dec: decrease
3sc-dec: triple decrease
hdc:half double crochet stitch
dc: double crochet stitch
FLO: throughfront loops only
BLO: throughback loops only
BPsc: backpost single crochet
xN: repetitions
( ): total of stitches ona round

LEGS & BODY

Make two legs, using BROWN :

1. 6ch, turn it and work on the
   second ch after the hook: 4sc, 3scinc. Keep crocheting at the other
   side of the ch, making 3sc and 1inc
   (12)
2. 1inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)
3. 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc)x5, 1sc (24).
4. BPsc: 24sc (24)
   5-6. 24sc (24).
5. 7sc, 4dec, 9sc (20).
6. 20sc (20)
7. 6sc, 4dec, 6sc (16)
8. 16sc (16). Change to beige on
   the last stitch.
9. BLO: 16slst (16)
10. BLO: 16sc (16)
11. BLO: 16slst (16)
12. BLO: 16sc (16)

13-14. 16sc (16). Change to
BRANCO on the last stitch of round
14.

15. BLO: 16hdc + 1slst on the first
    hdc (16)
    Make an invisible finish on both
    legs, there’s no need to leave a tail
    remaining for sewing.

Before we unite the legs, let’s
make the boots’ details:
✗ Using a new BROWN
yarn, embroider an “X” and a
horizontal line above it at the
frontal part of each boot. Make sure
it’s lined up with those consecutive
decreases we made. (PICTURE 1)
✗ Insert a new BROWN yarn in the
brown frontal loops, between the
rounds 10 and 11, and make 16slst.
(PICTURE 2)

To make sure the base of the feet will look flat, you can use a piece
of paperboard or plastic and put it in the feet OR you can use the
same yarn you used to make the shoes, run it between the initial
chains and pull it, it’ll give it the right shape as well.

Now, before we unite the legs, we should
make the shorts’ ruffles:
With the leg facing you, insert a new
OFF WHITE yarn on the frontal loops
between the rounds 14 and 15 (PICTURE
3) and make 1slst + 1ch on every stitch
from the base. Hide the tail.

Tip: use pins to make sure the shoes
will stay on place as you crochet the
other parts.

Now we’re going to attach both
legs together:

16. Align the feet in a way that you
    like it (lined up or leaning a bit to
    the side) (PICTURES 5 AND 6) and
    insert a new OFF WHITE yarn on the
    left leg (PICTURE 7), make 2ch and
    attach it to the right leg by making
    1hdc (this will be the beginning of
    a new round, use a stitch marker)
    (PICTURE 8). Make 15hdc on the
    first leg, 2hdc on the chains, 16hdc
    on the second leg and 2hdc on the
    chains. (36)
17. 36hdc (36)
    18-20. 36sc (36). Change to BLUE
    on the last stitch of round 20.

21. (4sc, 1dec)x6 (30)
22. BLO: 30sc (30)
23. 30sc (30)
24. (3sc, 1dec)x6 (24)
25. 1sc, 1dec, (2sc, 1dec)x5, 1sc
    (18)
26. (2sc, 1inc)x6 (24)
27. 24sc (24)
28. 11sc, change to OFF WHIT , 1sc
    in BLO, change to BLUE , 12sc (24)
29. 10sc, change to OFF WHIT ,
    3sc, change to BLUE, 11sc (24).
    Change to BEIGE on the last stitch.

30. BLO: 24sc (24)
31. (2sc, 1dec)x6 (18)
32. 18sc (18)
    Do not cut off the yarn, we’re
    going to use the same string
    to crochet the head. Before
    that, let’s make the dress…

Be careful not to fill the body with
too much stuffing, or it will have the
wrong shape. Check out the pictures
to see how it should look like.
(PICTURES 9, 10 AND 11)

DRESS;

Before making the head, we’re
going to crochet the dress’
layers:
Turn your amigurumi upside
down, with it’s back facing you
and insert a new BLUE yarn on
the last frontal loop between the
rounds 21 and 22 (PICTURE 12)

1. 30sc (30)
2. (4sc, 1inc)x6 (36)
3. 36sc (36)
4. (5sc, 1inc)x6 (42)

5. 42sc (42)
6. (3inc, 1dec)x8, 2sc (58)
   7-14. 58sc (58) [8 rounds]
   Make a slst and fasten off, hide
   the tail.

Just like we did with the dress: Turn your
amigurumi upside down with it’s back facing
you and insert a new OFF WHITE yarn on the
last loop of round 30 in BLO (PICTURE 15)
and make: 3 reverse sc, 3ch, skip 3 loops
from the base (where we’re going to sew the
arms) 9 reverse sc, 3ch, skip 3 loops from
the base, 6 reverse sc. (PICTURES 16 E 17)
Make 1slst and fasten off, hide the tail.

ARMS;

With BEIGE :

1. 6sc in the MR (6)
2. (1inc, 2sc)x2 (8)
   3-5. 8sc (8). Change to BLUE on the last
   stitch of round 5.
3. BLO: 8sc (8)
   7-9. 8sc (8). Change to OFF WHIT on the
   last stitch of round 9.
4. FLO: 8hdc (8). Change to BLUE on the
   last stitch.
   11-12. 8sc (8)
5. 6sc (6). This round will have less
   stitches so the color changes can be
   hidden behind the arm.
   Fold it in half, skip 1 stitch and unite both
   sides by making 3sc, closing the gap.
   (PICTURE 18)

Sleeves: Put the hand upside down and
insert a new OFF WHIT yarn on the last
loop between the rounds 5 and 6, and
make 8 reverse sc all around it. This step
is similar to what we did on the collar.
(PICTURE 19)
After that, fasten off and hide the tail.
✗ Embroidery: Use a BROWN yarn to
embroider 4 diagonal lines between the
hdc of round 10. (PICTURES 20 AND 21)

Sew them betweenthe rounds 30 and
31 of the body, where we skipped some
stitches while makingthe collar.
(PICTURES 22, 23 AND 24)

HEAD;

Keep working from round 32 of
the body:

33. FLO: 18inc (36)
34. (5sc, 1inc)x6 (42)
35. 3sc, 1inc, (6sc, 1inc)x5, 3sc
    (48)
36. (7sc, 1inc)x6 (54)
37. 4sc, 1inc, (8sc, 1inc)x5, 4sc
    (60)
    38-49. 60sc (60) [12 rounds]
38. 4sc, 1dec, (8sc, 1dec)x5, 4sc
    (54)
39. (7sc, 1dec)x6 (48)
40. 3sc, 1dec, (6sc, 1dec)x5, 3sc
    (42)
41. (5sc, 1dec)x6 (36)
42. 2sc, 1dec, (4sc, 1dec)x5, 2sc
    (30)

Place the eyes between the
rounds 42 and 43, with 9 stitches
apart from each other.

55. (3sc, 1dec)x6 (24)
56. 1sc, 1dec, (2sc, 1dec)x5, 1sc
    (18)
57. (1sc, 1dec)x6 (12)
58. 6dec (6)
    Fasten off as you make a reverse
    magic ring.

DETAILS OF THE FACE;

Check the pictures or videos from page 6 as you follow the instructions.
✗ Using the same yarn color that you used to make the hair, embroider the
eyebrows between the rounds 44 and 46, 1 round away from the eyes and 9
stitches away from each other. (PICTURE 25)
✗ Using white yarn, embroider the detail on the external side of the eye. This
is very important to give it the right expression. (PICTURE 26)
✗ With the same yarn color that you used to make the body, deepen the eyes
and accentuate the cheeks. (PICTURES 27 AND 28)
✗ With the same yarn color that you used to make the body, embroider the
nose 1x between the rounds 40 and 41, with 2 stitches of width and 4 stitches
apart from each eye. (PICTURES 29, 30, 31 AND 32)
✗ Apply blush (you can also use paint or crayon) at the bottom of the eyes and
on the nose. (PICTURES 29, 30, 31 AND 32)
✗ Use a thin brush or a toothpick to make the freckles over the blush. I used
orange makeup to do it. (PICTURES 29, 30, 31 AND 32)

You can see the
difference: the left
eye is deepened
and the rigth side
isn’t. You get a
better facial
expression as you
deepen the eyes!

HAIR;

IMPORTANT: You’re going to use the inside out of your work
as the hair. So, after you’ve made the base, turn it inside
out to work on the hairlocks.

Use ORANGE yarn and a 2,5mm
crochet hook (it’s important to
use a hook bigger than the one
you used to make the body):

1. 6sc in the MR (6)
2. 6inc (12)
3. (1sc, 1inc)x6 (18)
4. FLO: 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc)x5,
   1sc (24)
5. (3sc, 1inc)x6 (30)
6. 2sc, 1inc, (4sc, 1inc)x5, 2sc
   (36)
7. (5sc, 1inc)x6 (42)
8. 3sc, 1inc, (6sc, 1inc)x5, 3sc
   (48)

From now on we’re going to
make the hairlocks:
1-24. Make 52ch, skip two
chains after the hook and go
back making 50hdc, skip one
stitch from the base, slst on
the last stitch. THE LAST SLST
NEEDS TO BE DONE ON THE
STITCH FROM THE BASE OF THE
FIRST HAIRLOCK.

✗ Hide the tails from the base
and the hairlocks.
✗ CROCHET THE HAIRLOCKS
FROM THE RIGTH TO THE LEFT

UPPER HAIRLOCKS:
Crochet on the internal loops of the
hairlocks that were made in FLO.
Insert a new yarn on the first
loop from round 4. (PICTURE 33)
DON’T FORGET THAT WE’RE GOING
TO USE THE INSIDE OUT OF THE
HAIR

1-18. Make 52ch, skip the first and
second ch after the hook and go
back by making 50hdc, slst on the
next stitch from the base. THE LAST
SLST NEEDS TO BE DONE ON THE
STITCH FROM THE BASE OF THE
FIRST HAIRLOCK

✗ Use pins to place the hair on the right place before
you glue or sew it;
✗ For Merida’s Hair: Apply glue/sew
according to the instructions! We’re going to
sew/glue only a few parts since we’re using the
blocking technique;
✗ DO NOT apply glue along the entire length of the
hairlocks, only on the first few centimeters;
✗ You can use hot glue, silicone glue or craft glue! 🙂

BLOCKING;

We’re going to do the Blocking twice and both steps are
ESSENTIAL for the hair to have the right shape. Since we’ve
made 50hdc on every hairlock, it’ll shrink too much,
decreasing its size by more than half.

Because of that, we’re going to use the blocking technique to
make sure the hairlocks don’t shrink and stay curly:

Place the hair on a flat surface (cardboard);
Spin the hairlocks clockwise, do it 5x or 10x (if you change
the number of rotations it’ll make the hair look a bit more
natural) (PICTURES 34 AND 35);
Pin the curly hairlocks in a flat surface, stretched out
(PICTURE 36);
Spray some water OR use steam iron;
Wait 12 hours until it’s dry

✗ Glue the center of the hair to the head, placing the beginning
of the hairlocks to the front.
✗ Leave 4 hairlocks from the frontal part aside. Take those four
hairlocks (hairlocks 1, 2, 3 and 4) that are covering the eyes.
(PICTURES 37 AND 38)
✗ Those two hairlocks lined up with the hairlocks left aside
(hairlocks 24 and 5) should be glued around the face, close to the
eyes. (PICTURES 37 AND 38)

Upper hairlocks
✗ Just like we did with those 4 hairlocks from the base that we left
aside, we’re going to do the same with these 5 upper hairlocks and put
them in different places to make sure the hair will be voluminous.
(PICTURE 39)
✗ LEFT side: glue hairlock 3 over the left side of the head, leaning to
the back. (PICTURE 40)

Upper hairlocks
✗ RIGHT SIDE: Glue hairlocks 1 and 2, over the right side of the head,
partially covering hairlock 24. (PICTURE 42)

SO, YOU’LL GLUE JUST THE HAIRLOCKS THAT ARE
MARKED WITH A PIN ON PICTURES 43 AND 44.

✗ Now we’re going to glue those 4 hairlocks (1, 2, 3 and 4) we left
aside previously.
✗ Glue those hairlocks leaning to the right side of the hair (PICTURES
45, 46 AND 47)

To finish it off and to reduce the hair volume, we’re going to make the
2nd blocking. That’s importante to make sure the hair looks natural
and proportional around the head and body. Follow the instructions:

Tie the hair with a elastic or even a yarn, making a low ponytail,
but do it carefully and not too tight. You can left the pins on the
hair while doing it if you want to. (PICTURE 48)
Spray some water OR use steam iron;
Wait 12 hours until it’s dry.

QUIVER;

With DARK BR :

1. 6sc in the MR (6)
2. 6inc (12). Change to BROWN on
   the last stitch.
3. BPsc: 12sc (12)
   4-7. 12sc (12) [4 rounds]
4. 2sc, 2ch, skip 2 stitches from
   the base, 1sc, 2ch, skip 2 stitches
   from the base, 5sc (12). We’re
   going to run the belt through
   those four stitches we skipped.
   9-10. 12sc (12). Change to Dark
   brown on the last stitch.
5. FLO: 12slst (12)
   Fasten off, hide the tail.

Make the BELT in BROWN :
38ch, leaving a tail on both ends
to tie it around the waist.
(PICTURE 49)
The amount of chains can change,
make sure to always put it around
Merida’s waist to measure it and
see if fits. It needs to be a bit
loose, leaning to the left.
(PICTURE 50)
✗ Run the belt through the gap
left on round 8 of the quiver
and tie it on Merida’s waist.
(PICTURES 51 AND 52)

BOW;

Cut 14cm of wire (PICTURE 53);
Mold it in the shape of a “M” with a few angles (PICTURE 54);
Put it on Merida’s hand and measure it just to see if fits. If
necessary cut the ends of the wire a bit to make sure it’ll be
proportional.

Apply glue on both ends and wrap BEIGE yarn around the wire (do
it with a shade of beige that’s different from the one you used to
make the body) (PICTURES 55 AND 56);
Once you’ve finished, apply glue on the other end and fasten off.
Apply glue and wrap DARK BROW yarn (the same you used to
make the quiver) on both ends and on the middle of the bow.
(PICTURES 57AND 58);
Tie a string of DARK BROW yarn horizonatally from one end to the
other. Cut off the tails. (PICTURES 59 AND 60).

I got a bow with about 7,5cm.
IMPORTANT: make sure to fasten off the dark brown string behind
the bow, so it won’t be visible and it’ll give it a better finishing. 🙂
(PICTURE 61)

ARROWS;

Cut 3,5cm of wire (PICTURE 62);
To each arrow: cut two triangles with 1X0,8cm in black or gray
felt to make the arrowhead; and two triangles with 0,8X0,4cm in
brown felt to make the feathers (PICTURE 63); Remember to apply
a mix of glue and water or Glaze Medium on the felt before
cutting it. (video on page 6)
Apply glue on both ends of the wire and wrap a DARK BROW yarn
(PICTURE 64);
On one end: glue the black/gray triangles on opposite sides to
make the arrowhead (PICTURE 65);
On the other end: glue the brown triangles on each side to make
the feathers (PICTURE 66).

You can make the arrows using different techniques! I made three,
putting only two in the quiver.

There’s no need to sew or
glue the bow, you can just
put it between Merida’s arm
and dress.

TRIPLET BEARS:

MATERIALS;

Yarns inthe colors: black,gray and
white;
✔ Crochethook ina ccordance withthe
yarn;
✔ Sewingneedle (tapestryneedle);
✔ One pair of 9mm black buttons;
✔ One pair of 6mm safety eyes;
✔ 1 oval eye withabout 8X6mm (to be
used as the snout);
✔ Pins;
✔ Glue;
✔ Stuffing

Iused yarns from
brazilianbrands called:
Balloon: Branco (0002),
Preto (0100) and
Millenium (1538).

I got an amigurumi
with about
9cm

Using a 2,25mm
needle, square stitch
and with a tight
tension

SUPPORTING CONTENT;

To make the marks around the eyes , you can choose between two different
techniques to crochet the color changes:
× Yarn held double: as you crochet with one color, the other yarn will go
trhough the stitches, in a way that it’ll be “hidden” in the stitches;
× Jacquard: as you crochet with one color, the other yarn will stay aside on
the inside out of your work. When it’s time to change the colors, you’re
going to place the other yarn on the hook without tension and with a “U”
shape. To give it a better finishing, when crocheting in rows, you can cut
off the yarns in half at the end of the row and hide the tail (for the dress,
it’s not necessary);

The first part was
made in Jacquard:
× You can’t see the
color changes, it’s
very discreet;
× Better finishing;
× It’s a hard
technique

The second part was
made in yarn held
double:
× You can actually
see the color
changes;
× It’s easier

ABBREVIATIONS;

MR: magic ring
ch: chain
sc: single crochet stitch
slst: slip crochet stitch
inc: increase
3sc-inc: 3sc onthe same stitchto make a increase
dec: decrease
3sc-dec: triple decrease
FLO: throughfront loops only
BLO: throughback loops only
BPsc: backpost single crochet
xN: repetitions
( ): total of stitches ona round

HEAD;

With BLACK :

1. 14ch, turn it and make: 1inc,
   11sc, 4sc on the last stitch, keep
   working at the other side making
   11sc, 1inc (30) (PICTURE 1)
2. 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 10sc, 1inc, 1sc,
   1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 10sc, 1inc, 1sc (36)
3. 1sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 10sc, 1inc,
   2sc, 1inc, 2sc, 1inc, 12sc, 1inc, 1sc
   (42) (PICTURE 2)
4. 42sc (42)
5. (6sc, 1inc)x6 (48)
   6-9. 48sc (48) [4 rounds]
   From now on we’re going to make
   some rounds using color changes
   techniques (you can use the yarn
   held double tecnique or the
   Jacquard, watch the video tutorial
   on page 5) to make the marks
   around the eyes.

The instructions written in GRAY
should be made using GRAY yarn, and
everything written in BLACK should be
made with BLACK yarn. Remember to
change the yarn color as you yarn over
for the last time on the previous stitch.

10. 7sc, 3sc, 7sc, 3sc, 28sc (48)
11. 6sc, 5sc, 5sc, 5sc, 27sc (48)
    12-14. 5sc, 7sc, 3sc, 7sc, 26sc (48)
12. 6sc, 5sc, 5sc, 5sc, 27sc (48)
13. (6sc, 1dec)x6 (42)
14. 42sc (42)
15. (5sc, 1dec)x6 (36)
16. 2sc, 1dec, (4sc, 1dec)x5, 2sc
    (30)
17. (3sc, 1dec)x6 (24)
    DO NOT cut off the yarn because
    we’re going to keep using it to
    make de body, but before going to
    that, we’ll make the details of the
    face.

PICTURES WITH A
DIFFERENT YARN COLOR
TO MAKE IT EASIER TO SEE
THE DETAILS

IMPORTANT:
The beginning of the head needs to have a oval shape so
the marks around the eyes will be on the right place. That’s
why you need to MAKE SURE the increases are placed on
both extremities. Take a look at the pictures and see
where’s the beginning of the round on PICTURE 1 and the
positions of the increases on PICTURE 2

DETAILS OF THE FACE;

Place the eyes between the rounds 14 and 15, with 5 stitches apart of
each other (at the inner ends of the change color) (PICTURE 3);
✗ Embroider the eyebrows as you make rococo stitches, wrapping the
thread on your needle 12x (watch the video on page 4), diagonally,
between the rounds 7 and 10 (PICTURE 3);
✗ Using white yarn, make the external details around the eyes. This is
really important to make sure the character has the right facial
expression. (PICTURE 4)
✗ Using gray yarn, deepen the eyes and accentuate the cheeks (it’s also
an important detail and you can watch the video on page 4). (PICTURE 5)

FILLING IT WITH STUFFING;

You’ll need to be careful as you fill the head with stuffing, so make
sure you do it calmly. Since the head has an oval shape, you need to put
the stuffing carefully so it won’t be disproportionate and/or smashed;
✗ Fill it with stuffing slowly, putting it in the edges as well;
✗ Tips: Use a clamp to spread the stuffing inside of the head; you can
also use a felting needle to do that or whatever tool you have access to
(PICTURES 6).

Head on the left side:
without stuffing //
Head on the right
side: with stuffing

It’s really important to fill it with
stuffing correctly for your
amigurumis to actually look like
the little bears.

SNOUT;

With GRAY :

1. 4ch, turn it and make: 2sc,
   3sc-inc on the last stitch,
   keep working at the other
   side of the chains making
   1sc, 1inc (8)
2. (3sc, 1inc)x2 (10)
   Make a slst and fasten off,
   there’s no need to leave a tail
   for sewing.
   ✗ Place the oval safety eyes
   with about 8X6mm at the
   center of the snout, it’ll be the
   nose. (PICTURE 7)

IMPORTANT:
We’ve got a bunch of even
stitches between the eyes
where we could place the
snout, but if we did it like
that it wouldn’t be
centralized (PICTURE 8).
That’s why we won’t place the
safety eye/nose inside the
head, but cut off the safety
lock and just glue it on the
right place between the eyes
(PICTURE 9). You can burn the
tip of the safety lock after
cutting it off just to make it
safer.
✗ After that, place the nose
on the snout and glue it
between the rounds 13 and
17.

Here you can see why we can’t
use the safety part of the
eye/nose to place the snout
between the eyes: it would be
too much to the left or to the
right; that’s why we need to cut
it off and glue it CENTRALIZED

EARS;

With BLACK make two:

1. 8 sc in the MR (8)
2. 8inc (16)
3. (1sc, 1inc)x8 (24)
4. 24sc (24)
5. (3sc, 1inc)x6 (30)
6. 30sc (30)
7. 15dec(15)
   Make 1slst to finish, leaving a long tail remaining for sewing.

Sew the ears between the roungs 1 and 6 of the head, with 10 stitches apart form each other and 1 round above the eyebrows.
(PICTURES 10,11 AND 12)

Head on the left side: without
the eyes details and snout
//
Head on the right side: finished

BODY;

Keep working from round 20 of the
head:

21. FLO: 24sc (24)
22. (3sc, 1inc)x6 (30)
23. 30sc (30)
24. (4sc, 1inc)x6 (36)
    25-29. 36sc (36) [5 rounds]
25. 2sc, (4sc, 1dec)x5, 2sc (30)
26. (3sc, 1dec)x6 (24)
27. 1sc, 1dec, (2sc, 1dec)x5, 1sc (18)
28. (1sc, 1dec)x6 (12)
29. 6dec (6)
    Fasten off making a reverse magic
    ring.
    Pull the initial string of yarn from
    the MR to close it well, so it can
    come out on the head and give the
    body the rigth shape. (PICTURE 13)

FEET;

With BLACK , make two:

1. 6sc in the MR (6)
2. 6aum (12)
3. (3sc, 1aum)x3 (15)
   4-6. 15sc (15)
4. 4sc, 3dec, 5sc (12)
5. 3sc, 3sc-dec, 6sc (10)
6. 10sc (10)
7. 5dec (5)
   Finish as you make a reverse magic
   ring, there’s no neede to leave a tail
   for sewing. (PICTURE 14)
   ✗ Using a new black yarn, sew the
   feet to the body using a button to
   make it articulated (watch the
   video on page 4), between the
   rounds 28 and 30 of the body. Make
   sure both legs are lined up with the
   ears, and with 15 stitches apart
   from each other. (PICTURES 15, 16,
   17, 18, 19 AND 20)

ARMS;

With BLACK, make two:

1. 6sc (6)
2. (1inc, 2sc)x2 (8)
   3-7. 8sc (8) [6 rows]
   Fold it in half, skip 1st and
   attach both side by making
   3sc. (PICTURES 21 AND 22)
   ✗ We can change the
   position of the arms to give
   uniqueness to each bear

Option 1: Sew the arm
diagonally between the
rounds 22 and 24 of the
body; sew the middle of the
arm to the stomach.
(PICTURES 23 AND 24)
Option 2: Sew the arm
vertically between the
rounds 22 and 23 of the
body, close to each leg.
(PICTURES 25 AND 26)

YOUR MERIDA DOLL AND TRIPLET BEARS ARE READY!