Hello dear Amigurumi KNITTING LOVERS
Today, we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. Main crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unigurumi lambs, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…
Today’s daily new crochet pattern Amigurumi Mother Rabbit Crochet Pattern without amigurumi
I want to give you some information about this pattern;
ABBREVIATIONS
MR – Magic ring Ch – chain
ch – chain
slst – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
st – stitch
inc – increase
dec – decrease
r – row/round
[ ] x … – repeat … times
(st) – number of st in that row
MATERIALS
Yarn Albea organic cotton (165 m/50 g) EB030. But you can take any yarn and color you like. And my advice: never save on yarn and, if you want to get a beautiful stylish toy, do not pick up cheap acrylic. All your efforts will be in vain, since acrylic can destroy all efforts.
We also need:
Hook size 1.75. You will need some pink yarn for the nose and
cheeks, and red yarn for shoes and embroidery on the dress. Filler (holofiber, it is better to buy a good one), bead eyes, buttons
for dress and slippers, fabric and sewing accessories (scissors,
threads, pins and a chopstick to twist the part). It seems to be all.
HEAD
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. [ 1 sc, inc ] x 6 (18)
4. 1 sc, inc, [ 2 sc, inc ] x 5, 1 sc (24)
5. [ 3 sc, inc ] x 6 (30)
6. [ 1 sc, inc ] x 3, 24 sc (33)
7. 1 sc, inc, [ 2 sc, inc ] x 2, 25 sc (36)
8. 36 sc (36)
9. [ 5 sc, inc ] x 6 (42)
10. 42 sc (42)
11. [ 3 sc, inc ] x 3, 30 sc (45)
12. 2 sc, inc, [ 4 sc, inc ] x 2, 32 sc (48)
13. [ 7 sc, inc ] x 6 (54)
14-18 (5). 54 sc (54)
19. [ 7 sc, dec ] x 6 (48)
20. 2 sc, dec, [ 4 sc, dec ] x 2, 32 sc (45)
21. [ 3 sc, dec ] x 9 (36)
22. [ crochet together 3 sts with 1 sc ] x 4, [ 2 sc, dec ] x 6 (22)
23. dec x 2, [1 sc, dec ] x 6 (14)
Cut the yarn and close the remaining stitches through
the front loops.
EARS (make 2):
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. [ 1sc, inc ] x 3 (9)
3. [ 2sc, inc ] x 3 (12)
4. 12 sc (12)
5. [ 3 sc, inc ] x 3 (15)
6. 15 sc (15)
7. [ 4sc, inc ] x 3 (18)
8-15 (8). 18 sc (18)
16. [ 4 sc, dec ] x 3 (15)
17. 15 sc (15)
18. [ 3 sc, dec ] x 3 (12)
19. 12 sc (12)
20. dec, 4 sc, dec, fold. Go through the pairs of stitches on
both layers at once: 4 sc. Cut the yarn leaving a long rest.
BODY
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. [ 1 sc, inc ] x 6 (18)
4. 1 sc, inc, [ 2 sc, inc ] x 5, 1 sc (24)
5. [ 3 sc, inc ] x 6 (30)
6. 2 sc, inc, [ 4 sc, inc ] x 5, 2 sc (36)
7. [ 5 sc, inc ] x 6 (42)
8. 3 sc, inc, [ 6 sc, inc ] x 5, 3 sc (48)
9-14 (6). 48 sc (48)
15. [ 6 sc, dec ] x 6 (42)
16-17 (2). 42 sc (42)
18. [ 19 sc, dec ] x 2 (40)
19. [ 18 sc, dec ] x 2 (38)
20-21 (2). 38 sc (38)
22. [ 17 sc, dec ] x 2 (36)
23. 36 sc (36)
24. [ 4 sc, dec ] x 6 (30)
25. 30 sc (30)
26. [ 3 sc, dec ] x 6 (24)
27. 1 sc, dec, [ 2 sc, dec ] x 5, 1 sc (18)
28. 18 sc (18)
Cut the yarn leaving a long rest and pull the end through
the last stitch completely. Stuff the body,
ARMS (make 2):
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. [ 1sc, inc ] x 3 (9)
3-26 (24). 9 sc (9)
Don’t suff. Fold, go through the pairs of stitches on both layers at once: 4 sc. Cut the yarn leaving a long rest.
LEGS (make 2):
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. inc x 6 (12)
3-8 (6). 12 sc (12)
start to crochet the heel
9. 6 sc, turn
10. 6 sc, turn
11. 6 sc, turn
12. (in the same stitch) 4 sc, dec, turn
13. (in the same stitch) 3 sc, dec, turn
14 . crochet 3 stitches together, turn the leg so that the heel is
on top and continue to crochet in a spiral
15. 3 sc (1st side), 3 stitches together (1st ankle),
4 sc (front), 3 stitches together (2nd ankle), 3 sc (2nd side),
dec (back) (13)
16. 11 sc, dec (12)
17-31 (14). 12 sc (12)
Stuff as you go.
Now you are must be at the middle of the back
32. 5 sc, popcorn stitch, 6 sc (13)
33. 5 sc, dec, 6 sc (12)
34-58 (14). 12 sc (12)
59. 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec
(the decreases are on the sides of a leg)
Suff the detail. Fold, go through the pairs of stitches on both
layers at once: 4 sc. Cut the yarn leaving a long rest.
TAIL:
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. 12 sc (12)
4. [1 sc, dec ] x 4 (8)
Cut the yarn leaving a long rest
Assembly:
We form the face of a rabbit. Visually, we should see where the muzzle is. We find the middle and insert the needle with the yarn of the same color, in the place where the nose will be. I have it is the middle of the 11th row from the bottom. Then we insert the same needle under the muzzle, pull the thread so that we have two cheeks (see the picture). You can also repeat the action. We fix the thread, hide the tail inside.
We sew the bead eyes in the 13th row from the bottom at
a distance of 18 sts from each other. We embroider cheeks
under the eyes with pink yarn and a nose like a heart.
We fold the ears in half and sew on the top of the head.
Sew the paws and tail as you like.
I remind you that my pattern is just a template and you must
apply your imagination. It is important! I never count the
rows during sewing, that’s why I get different toys, each one
with it’s own character. This is the beauty of handmade toys.
And now I’ll take a chance and try to tell you as clearly as
possible how to sew a dress for our rabbit.
To create a dress we need:
- fabric that is easy for you to work with (it can be satin,
chintz or any other not very dense fabric). Size 40*50 cm - ruler
- graph paper, pencil or pen
- sewing accessories (scissors, pins, threads)
- sewing machine, if you have. If not, we will sew with our hands
- button
And then everything that you want. It can be braid, lace,
ribbons for the decor of the dress itself.
So let’s get started. You need to build the same pattern for
yourself, as you see in the photo. Fold the pattern in half in
the center line and cut it out. So our pattern will be symmetrical. We apply it to a blank sheet of paper, circle it, and then
apply the pattern folded in half to the shoulder seams and
circle (we do, as in the photo). Then we fold the large part in
half along the center line and cut it out. We check whether
everything converges and whether everything is symmetrical. If there are defects, you can trim. It is better to make
a good pattern once, so as not to redo it later.
We transfer our pattern to thicker paper so that in the future
it does not wrinkle so quickly and lasts longer. Cut it out.
We apply the pattern to the fabric, previously folded twice
with the face inward, circle it with a disappearing marker
or chalk
hen we sew from the beginning of the back strap along the
neck and to the edge of the second half of the back strap (as
in the photo below!). Then we sew along the cutouts for the
sleeves. But here we do not touch the side. And only then we
cut out our detail!
From the bottom we leave allowances of 0.5cm. And at the
neck and sleeves we cut as much as possible. But be careful,
pay attention to how much your fabric «crumbles» so that
the seams do not deteriorate when turned out
Now you need to turn the part to the front side. Here you
will need a chopstick. Turned out. We need to connect the
armholes of the sleeves. We connect the wrong sides of
the front and back parts of the part and sew them together. Look at the photo
This is how it looks as a result. And this is the hardest part in
sewing a dress. The rest will be simpler
Next, we need to sew a skirt, which we then sew to the
top and get a dress. To do this, cut a piece of fabric
measuring 36 cm in length and 12 cm in height.
We twist the edges and the bottom of the skirt twice and sew
it so that everything is neat. I don’t sew the skirt in the back,
as it’s more convenient for children to change clothes on a
toy. The top of the skirt is not finished now. Here we need to
make folds. I simplified my life in this way – I make a seam,
backing 0.5 cm from the edge. At the end I fix the thread,
and then I pull on one of the remaining tails, it should remain
18 cm long. It looks like this
Now we need to sew our two parts together – the top
and the skirt. We proceed as follows. Our skirt remains to
lie, as in the photo above. We take the upper part, turn
it upside down and connect the front part with the skirt.
We fix all this with pins, check, and then we flash both
parts together
Next, we hide this seam with a lining. Turn it about 0.5 cm
inward and sew it manually with a blind seam
Our dress is almost done. Little things remained – on the
back we make a buttonhole on one part, and sew a
button to the second.
And the dress is ready!!!
I also embroidered a heart with red yarn. But you now
have a base. And you can add any details. These are
pockets, and lace, and ribbons instead of buttons.
In general, there is a place for your fantasy
Shoes
1. Ch 11.
2. Work along the chain, starting in 2nd stitch from hook:
inc, 8 sc, inc x 2, 8 sc, inc (24)
3. inc x 2, 8 sc, inc x 4, 8 sc, inc x 2 (32)
4-5 (2). 32 sc (32)
6. 11 sc, 4 dec, 11 sc, dec (28)
7. 7 slst, ch 12, slst in 7nd stitch from hook, 6 slst (got a
clasp), 19 slst. Fasten the thread, hide the tail. Sew a button.
Right:
1. Ch 11.
2. Work along the chain, starting in 2nd stitch from hook:
inc, 8 sc, inc x 2, 8 sc, inc (24)
3. inc x 2, 8 sc, inc x 4, 8 sc, inc x 2 (32)
4-5 (2). 32 sc (32)
6. 11 sc, 4 dec, 11 sc, dec (28)
7. 19 slst, ch 12, slst in 7nd stitch from hook, 6 slst (got a
clasp), 7 slst. Fasten the thread, hide the tail. Sew a button.
Our shoes are ready. You can also not bother and make
them without fasteners by simply sewing on Martha’s leg.