Amigurumi Orangutan Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Orangutan Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

Bright orange fur, big quizzical eyes and awkwardly long limbs
– orangutans are our adorable, scruffy cousins! These
fascinating mammals spend most of their lives moving
through the tree canopy (which is quite a feat considering
their large size!) and feasting on fruit. Orangutans are known
for their intelligence: just like us, baby orangutans learn many
skills by copying their parents. And, just like us, they really
are creatures of comfort; I especially love seeing them make
leafy umbrellas when it rains and snuggling down in their
treetop nests to sleep on leafy pillows. What could be cuter?

Dimensions
48cm (19in) tall
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns 100% Wool Worsted Superwash (100% wool) 200m
(219yds) per 100g (3½oz) ball:
Warm Orange: 3 x 100g (3½oz) balls in Vintage Pink (shade
1255)
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton) 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Pale Orange: 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Peach Orange (shade 455)
Hooks
3.5mm (US E/4) hook
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 18mm black safety eyes
Wire brush
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle
Pen

Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown, make a small circular swatch using the chosen yarn
and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the swatch
pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.
When made in worsted weight wool with 3.5mm (US E/4) hook the
swatch should measure 4cm (1⅝in) across.

Thumbs and big toes
Make 4 in Pale Orange yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Rounds 3–9: Sc in all 12 sts. [7 rounds]
Fasten off, set aside. (photo 1)

Arms
The arms and legs are worked in the same way, but the legs are
shorter.
Make 2, start in Pale Orange yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 3: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 4: (3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc) 2 times. [18]
Round 5: (4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc) 2 times. [22]
Round 6: (5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) 2 times. [26]
Round 7: (6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) 2 times. [30]
Round 8: (7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc) 2 times. [34] (photo 2

Rounds 9–18: Sc in all 34 sts. [10 rounds]
In the next round we will join in the thumb.
Round 19: 10sc, bring the thumb in line with the work, 12sc around
the thumb, carry on along the main round, 24sc. [46] (photos 3 and
4)

Rounds 20–21: Sc in all 46 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 22: 14sc, inv dec 2 times, 28sc. [44]
Round 23: Sc in all 44 sts.
Round 24: 13sc, inv dec 2 times, 27sc. [42]
Round 25: Sc in all 42 sts.
Round 26: 12sc, inv dec 2 times, 26sc. [40]
Round 27: Sc in all 40 sts.
Round 28: (inv dec, 6sc) 5 times. [35]
Round 29: (inv dec, 5sc) 5 times. [30]
Round 30: Sc in all 30 sts.
Round 31: Change to Warm Orange and a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Sc in all 30 sts. (photo 5)

Rounds 32–61: Sc in all 30 sts. [30 rounds]
Round 62: 9sc, (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times, 6sc. [27]
Round 63: 9sc, (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times, 6sc. [24] (photo 6)

The next round adds a chain gap in the arm, which will allow you to
create the elbow later.
Round 64: 9sc, ch21, skip 9sts, 6sc. [15 + 21ch] (photos 7 and 8)

Round 65: 9sc, 21sc along the chain, 6sc. [36] (photo 9)

Rounds 66–89: Sc in all 36 sts. [24 rounds]
Round 90: 9sc, (inv dec, 5sc) 3 times, 6sc. [33]
Round 91: 9sc, (inv dec, 4sc) 3 times, 6sc. [30]
Round 92: (inv dec, 3sc) 6 times. [24] (photo 10

Fasten off and add stuffing to the hand and lower arm section and set
aside.
Legs
Make 2, start in Pale Orange yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Rounds 1–31: Work in the same way as for the arms.
Rounds 32–51: Sc in all 30 sts. [20 rounds]
Round 52: 8sc, (inv dec, 3sc) 3 times, 7sc. [27]
Round 53: 8sc, (inv dec, 2sc) 3 times, 7sc. [24]
The next round adds a chain gap in the leg, which will allow you to
create the knee later.
Round 54: 8sc, ch21, skip 9sts, 7sc. [15 + 21ch]
Round 55: 8sc, 21sc along the chain, 7sc. [36]
Rounds 56–75: Sc in all 36 sts. [20 rounds]
Round 76: 8sc, (inv dec, 5sc) 3 times, 7sc. [33]
Round 77: 8sc, (inv dec, 4sc) 3 times, 7sc. [30]
Round 78: (inv dec, 3sc) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off, add stuffing to the feet and lower leg section and set
aside. (photo 11)

To shape the hands and feet, sew two seams onto them, dividing
them into fingers and toes. Use your preferred hand-sewing stitch for
this; I like to use back stitch for a strong seam. (photos 12 and 13)

Body
Make 1 in Warm Orange yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Round 1: 7sc in a magic ring. [7]
Round 2: Inc in all 7 sts. [14]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [21]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [28]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [35]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [42]
Rounds 7–8: Sc in all 42 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 9: (6sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [48]
Round 10: Sc in all 48 sts.
The next round joins in the legs. Place the legs onto a work surface
with the big toes pointing in. If you’d prefer to sew the legs on at the
end you can chain 16 and skip 8 body stitches instead of crocheting
through the layers together; this will create gaps in the fabric.
Round 11: 8sc, 8sc along both the body and the lower edge of the
leg (the section closest to the work surface), 16sc along body, 8sc
along both the body and the lower edge of next leg, taking care the
thumbs are pointing inwards, 8sc along the body. [48] (photo 14)

Round 12: 8sc, 16sc along the remaining free leg stitches, skip 8
stitches on the joined leg, 16sc along the body, 16sc along the next
leg, skip the 8 stitches that join the leg, 8sc along the body. [64]
(photo 15)

Rounds 13–22: Sc in all 64 sts. [10 rounds]
The next round is where the shaping for the tummy starts.
Round 23: 16sc, (inv dec, 2sc) 8 times, 16sc. [56]
Round 24: 16sc, (1sc, inv dec) 8 times, 16sc. [48]
Rounds 25–34: Sc in all 48 sts. [10 rounds] (photo 16)

Now it’s time to add in the arms. When attaching the arms, check that
the thumbs are pointing to the top of the work and that the elbow
folds are the right way up. (photo 17) If you’d prefer to sew the arms
in at the end, you can ch12 and skip 12 body stitches instead of
crocheting the layers together; this will create gaps in the fabric.

Round 35: 8sc, 12sc along both the layer of arm closest to body and
the body, 12sc along the front of body, 12sc along both the closest
layer of arm and body, 4sc. [48] (photo 18)

Round 36: 8sc, 12sc along the remaining free stitches of the arm,
skip 12 body stitches, 12sc along the front of body, 12sc along the
next free 12 stitches of the arm, skip 12 body/arm stitches, 4sc along
the body. [48] (photo 19)

Round 37: Sc in all 48sts.
Round 38: (6sc, inv dec) 6 times. [42]
Round 39: (5sc, inv dec) 6 times. [36]
Round 40: (4sc, inv dec) 6 times. [30]
Round 41: Slst in all 30 sts.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Add lots of stuffing to the body.
Head
Make 1 in Warm Orange yarn with a 3.5mm (US E/4) hook.
Round 1: 7sc in a magic ring. [7]
Round 2: Inc in all 7 sts. [14]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [21]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [28]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [35]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [42]
Round 7: (6sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [48]
Rounds 8–10: Sc in all 48 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 11: (7sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [54]
Rounds 12–14: Sc in all 54 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 15: (8sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [60]
Rounds 16–25: Sc in all 60 sts. [10 rounds]
Increases for the muzzle start in the next round.
Round 26: 24sc, (inc in next st, 1sc) 6 times, 24sc. [66]
Round 27: 24sc, (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times, 24sc. [72] (photo 20)

Round 28–35: Sc in all 72 sts. [8 rounds]
Round 36: (10sc, inv dec) 6 times. [66]
Round 37: (9sc, inv dec) 6 times. [60]
Round 38: (8sc, inv dec) 6 times. [54]
Round 39: (7sc, inv dec) 6 times. [48]
Round 40: (6sc, inv dec) 6 times. [42]
Round 41: (5sc, inv dec) 6 times. [36]
Round 42: (4sc, inv dec) 6 times. [30]
Fasten off.
Add the safety eyes, approximately 7 stitches apart, between
Rounds 22 and 23, above the muzzle increases. (photo 21)

Add lots of stuffing and sew the head and body together (see
Assembly techniques). (photo 22)

Face patch
Make 1 in Pale Orange yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 7sc in a magic ring. [7]
Round 2: Inc in all 7 sts. [14]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [21]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [28]
Round 5: (3sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [35]
Round 6: (4sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [42]
Round 7: (5sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [49]
Round 8: (6sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [56]
Rounds 9–16: Sc in all 56 sts. [6 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving an extra-long tail for sewing.
FINISHING THE FACE PATCH
Turn the face patch wrong side out and draw a line across the middle
to mark out the mouth. (photo 23)

Sew a seam along this line, creating a fold in the fabric. (photo 24)

Turn the face patch right side out and pin it to the front of the head,
covering the muzzle increases. (photo 25)

Carefully sew the patch in place, adding a bit of stuffing underneath
to fill it out. (photo 26)

Ears
Make 2 in Pale Orange yarn with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: Inc 7 times, 5slst. [19]
Round 4: 14sc, 5sc into the slst. [19]
Round 5: 14sc, slst into next st, skip the remaining sts. [15]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Fold the parts of the ears with the increases to form the ear shape.
(photo 27) Sew the ears to the side of the head, a little below the
eyes. (photo 28)

FInal Details
Using the hole created by the chain gap, add lots of stuffing to the
arms and legs. Fold the arms and legs along the gaps to form the
elbows and the knees. Adjust the fold to your liking to make the
elbows pointier. Pin and sew up the gaps. (photo 29)

Using Pale Orange yarn, embroider the nose in the centre of the face
patch, positioning it between the eyes. First, make two short stitches
over the surface – a small distance apart – then wrap the yarn
around those two stitches to build them up. (photo 30)

Using the wire brush, brush all of the Warm Orange sections to make
your orangutan fluffy. Move your brush in different directions to build
up a fuzzy layer all over – the more you brush the fabric, the fluffier it
will be. (photo 31)