Amigurumi Slender Loris Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi slender loris crochet pattern for you.
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Amigurumi Slender Loris Recipe (2024)

Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Slender Loris Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

High up in the tree canopy the slender loris creeps silently
along the branches, large eyes wide open to take in the night.
Let’s pause to admire this perfect nocturnal hunter. These
primitive mammals spend their nights alone, foraging for
insects, shoots and fruit. Because they don’t have a tail, they
need a continuous tree canopy to hunt successfully – they
can’t jump from tree to tree like other primates. And what is
the best way to spend the day after a busy night of hunting?
Why, high up in the canopy, curled up in a ball, fast asleep
next to their friends, of course!

Dimensions
20cm (8in) long
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton), 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Brown: 2 x 50g (1¾oz) balls in Soft Fudge (shade 410)
Beige: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Light Caramel (shade 409)
Dark Brown: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Coffee Bean (shade 411)
Orange: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Melon Sorbet (shade 417)
Lain’amourée Orphée Lace Weight Mohair (72% mohair, 28% silk),
420m (459yds) per 50g (1¾oz) ball:
Caramel Mohair: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Caramel Au Beurre Salé
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 6mm black safety eyes
Craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) or wire (optional)
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle

Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.

Eyes
Make 2 in Orange yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: Sc in all 18 sts. [18]
Round 5: Slst in all 18 sts. [18]
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. (photo 1)

Left eye patch
Make 1 in Dark Brown yarn.
Join Dark Brown to any slip stitch from Round 5 of the eyes.
Round 1: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24] (photo 2)

Round 2: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc, 4slst, (3sc, inc in next st) 3 times.
[29]
Round 3: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc, slst in next st, skip the remaining
sts. [11]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Right eye patch
Make 1 in Dark Brown yarn.
Join Dark Brown to any slip stitch from Round 5 of the eyes.
Round 1: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Round 2: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 4slst, (3sc, inc in next st) 4 times. [30]
Round 3: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc, slst in next st, skip the remaining
sts. [11]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Insert the safety eyes in the centre of the orange eye pieces – poke
a hole through the fabric with a knitting needle or scissors to loosen
the stitches if this proves tricky. Secure the safety eyes at the back.
(photo 3)

Head and body
Make 1, start in Beige yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: Inc in all 5 sts. [10]
Rounds 3–4: Sc in all 10 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 5: 2sc, inc in next 6 sts, 2sc. [16]
Round 6: 2sc, (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times, 2sc. [22]
Round 7: 2sc, (inc in next st, 2sc) 6 times, 2sc. [28]
Round 8: 2sc, (3sc, inc in next st) 6 times, 2sc. [34]
Round 9: 2sc, (inc in next st, 4sc) 6 times, 2sc. [40]
Round 10: (4sc, inc in next st) 8 times. [48]
Round 11: (5sc, inc in next st) 8 times. [56]
Round 12: 7sc, (6sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [63] (photo 4

Round 13: (10sc, inc in next st, 10sc) 3 times. [66]
Round 14: Sc in all 66 sts. [66]
Rounds 15–20: Change to Brown yarn held together with Caramel
Mohair for extra fluffiness, sc in all 66 sts. [6 rounds] (photo 5)

Round 21: (10sc, inv dec, 10sc) 3 times. [63]
Rounds 22–24: Sc in all 63 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 25: (inv dec, 19sc) 3 times. [60] (photo 6)

Rounds 26–31: Sc in all 60 sts. [6 rounds]
Round 32: (9sc, inv dec, 9sc) 3 times. [57]
Rounds 33–34: Sc in all 57 sts. [2 rounds]
The next round marks the positions of the arms.
Round 35: 19sc, 3sc in next st, 36sc, 3sc in next st. [61]
Round 36: 20sc, 3sc in next st, 38sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc. [65] (photo
7

Next, pin the two eye patches to the front of the face, so that the arm
markings are on the bottom edge. Sew in place, adding a little
stuffing under the orange part of each eye. (photos 8 and 9)

Round 37: 21sc, 3sc in next st, 40sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [69]
Round 38: 19sc, ch1, skip 7sts, 36sc, ch1, skip 7 sts. [57] (photo
10

Rounds 39–40: Sc in all 57 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 41: (inv dec, 17sc) 3 times. [54]
Rounds 42–44: Sc in all 54 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 45: (8sc, inv dec, 8sc) 3 times. [51]
Rounds 46–48: Sc in all 51 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 49: (inv dec, 15sc) 3 times. [48]
The next round marks the positions of the legs.
Round 50: 2sc, ch7, skip next st, 14sc, ch7, skip next st, 30sc. [46 +
2 7ch gaps] (photo 11)

Round 51: 2sc, 7sc along the chain, 14sc, 7sc along the chain, 30sc.
[60]
Round 52: 4sc, sc3tog, 18sc, sc3tog, 32sc. [56]
Round 53: 3sc, sc3tog, 16sc, sc3tog, 31sc. [52]
Round 54: 2sc, sc3tog, 14sc, sc3tog, 30sc. [48]
Round 55: (inv dec, 6sc) 6 times. [42]
Round 56: (5sc, inv dec) 6 times. [36] (photo 12

Round 57: (2sc, inv dec, 2sc) 6 times. [30]
Round 58: (3sc, inv dec) 6 times. [24]
Add lots of toy stuffing.
Round 59: (1sc, inv dec, 1 sc) 6 times. [18]
Round 60: (1sc, inv dec) 6 times. [12]
Round 61: Inv dec 6 times. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread tail through front loops with a
tapestry needle and pull tight to close. (photo 13

Ears
Make 2 in Beige yarn.
Row 1: 5sc in a magic ring, turn. [5]
Row 2: Ch1, inc in all 5 sts, turn. [10]
Row 3: Ch1, sc in all 10 sts. [10]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 14)

Pin the ears to the top of the head, above the eyes between Rounds
18 and 19, approximately 15 stitches apart. Sew in place. (photo
15)

Arms and legs
Make 4, start in Brown yarn held together with Caramel Mohair
yarn.
For the arms, join the yarn to the first of the skipped stitches. For the
legs, join the yarn to the first of the new chains. (photo 16)

Round 1: 7sc along the skipped stitches/chains, 1sc into the side of
the gap, 1sc into the stitch/chain on next row, 1sc into the other side
of the gap. [10]
Rounds 2–7: Sc in all 10 sts. [6 rounds]
Round 8: Inv dec 3 times, 4sc. [7]
Round 9: 3slst, 1sc, inc 2 times, 1sc. [9]
Round 10: 3slst, 6sc. [9]
Rounds 11–28: Sc in all 9 sts. [18 rounds]
Round 29: (inv dec, 1sc) 2 times, 3sc. [7]
Round 30: Sc in all 7 sts. [7]
Fasten off and add some craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems) or wire
into the arms and legs at this point if you choose to. Stitch the arms
and legs closed. (photo 17)

Palms and fingers
Make 4 in Beige yarn.
Round 1: 7sc in a magic ring. [7]
Round 2: 2sc, (ch4, start 2nd ch from hook, 3slst into back humps of
the chains, 1sc in next st) 5 times. [7 + 5 fingers] (photo 18