Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi The Fawn Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS
YARN
100% Cotton DK yarn of your own choice.
I used Ricorumi Cotton DK 25g

052 Light Brown x 2 (Head, ears, arms & legs)
061 Ivory x 1 (Face)
065 Blush x 2 (Dress)
002 Cream x 1 (Underskirt, pants, antlers & collar)
Small amounts of 007 Pastel Pink, 009 Coral &
Small amount of Dark Brown for the nose

Other Materials

2.25mm hook
Black embroidery thread
Long embroidery needle and strong thread for indenting the eyes
10mm safety eyes x 1 pair
Soft toy filling
Stitch markers / round headed pins / yarn needle / scissors

ABBREVIATIONS – GENERAL GUIDE
mr – magic ring
st / sts – stitch / stitches
sl st – slip stitch
ch / chs – chain / chains
sc – single crochet
inc – single crochet increase

dec – invisible decrease (dec 2 sts together FLO)
hdc – half double crochet
hdc inc – half double crochet increase
dc – double crochet
dc inc – double crochet increase
BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only
rnd – round
F/O – fasten off
[…] * … – repeat instruction in bracket … times
(…) – total number of sts in round / row

PATTERN TERMINOLOGY
This pattern is written using US terminology.

FINISHED SIZE
Approximately 24cm in height when using the recommended materials & hook size.

Notes

Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
Colour changes are made in the last step of the last sc of the round, with the exception of the head where the colour changes are made in the middle of the rnds instead of at the end.
For the head, I have used the ‘cut and tie’ method for the colour changes, you may prefer to use a different method.
I have used the ‘x’ stitch to create my Hattie (yarn under technique).
Using different materials and hook size to what is recommended may alter the final appearance of your fawn. If you prefer to use safety eyes smaller than 10mm, please consider positioning them with a few less sts between them.
If a different size hook and yarn is used, consider adjusting the size of the safety eyes accordingly.

HEAD & BODY
The head and body are made as one piece, starting from the head. Stuff as you go.
Start with light brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 5, 1 sc (24)
Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
Rnd 6: 2 sc, inc, [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, inc, [6 sc, inc] x 5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd 9: [7 sc, inc ] x 6 (54)
Rnd 10 – 12 (3 rnds): 54 sc (54)
Note: Rnd 13 to 26 are worked using light brown, indicated as yarn (B)
and ivory, indicated as yarn (C).
Rnd 13: (B) 17 sc, (C) 4 sc, (B) 12 sc, (C) 4 sc, (B) 17 sc (54)
Rnd 14: (B) 16 sc, (C) 6 sc, (B) 10 sc, (C) 6 sc, (B) 16 sc (54)
Rnd 15: (B) 15 sc, (C) 8 sc, (B) 8 sc, (C) 8 sc, (B) 15 sc (54)
Rnd 16: (B) 14 sc, (C) 10 sc, (B) 6 sc, (C) 10 sc, (B) 14 sc (54)
Rnd 17 – 19 (3 rnds): (B) 13 sc, (C) 12 sc, (B) 4 sc, (C) 12 sc, (B) 13 sc (54)
Rnd 20 – 23 (4 rnds): (B) 13 sc, (C) 28 sc, (B) 13 sc (54)
Insert 10mm eyes between rnds 19/20, 12 sts apart (approx. 9 clear sts between them once inserted. Pic. 2)
Rnd 24: (B) 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc, (C) 1 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 4, 1 sc, (B) 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (45)
Rnd 25: (B) 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, (C) 1 sc, dec, [3 sc, dec] x 4, (B) [3 sc, dec] x 2, 1 sc (36)
Rnd 26: (B) dec, 4 sc, dec, 1 sc, (C) 3 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 2, 1 sc, (B) 3 sc, dec, 4 sc (30)
We will work the following rnds in light brown only. F/O the ivory yarn and secure the tail.
Rnd 27: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
Rnd 28: 1 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] x 5, 1 sc (18)
Rnd 29: 18 sc (18)
Rnd 30: 1 sc, inc, [2 sc, inc] x 5, 1 sc (24) – change to blush yarn at the end of rnd 30.
Rnd 31: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
We will now pause to indent the eyes, ensure the head is firmly stuffed.

We will now continue with making the body.
Rnd 32: 30 sc (30)
Rnd 33: 2 sc, inc [4 sc, inc] x 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd 34 – 36 (3 rnds): 36 sc (36)
Rnd 37: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
Rnd 38 – 39 (2 rnds): 42 sc (42)
At the end of rnd 39, make additional scs so that the start of rnd 40
is at the back centre.
Rnd 40: BLO 42 sc (42) – Change to cream at the end of rnd 40.
Rnd 41: 42 sc (42)
Rnd 42: BLO 42 sc (42)
Rnd 43 – 46 (4 rnds): 42 sc (42)
Rnd 47: [5 sc, dec] x 6 (36)
Rnd 48: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 5, 2 sc (30)
Rnd 49: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)
Rnd 50: 1 sc, dec, [2 sc, dec] x 5, 1 sc (18)
Rnd 51: [1 sc, dec] x 6 (12)
Rnd 52: [dec] x 6 (6)
F/O and weave the yarn tail through each FLO of the last round. Gently pull the tail to close the opening and weave it in.

TOP SKIRT
NOTE: If you prefer to attach the legs before making the skirt, please refer to page 10 for assembly.
The skirt and under skirt are worked with each rnd joined with a sl st and a lifting ch to start the next rnd. Start each rnd with the first st in the same st as the lifting ch. The sl st and ch 1 do not count as sts.
Using blush yarn, turn your work upside down and insert your hook under the last FLO of rnd 39 of the body and ch 1 (Pic. 7).
Rnd 1: [hdc, hdc inc] x 21, sl st into first st, ch 1 (63)
Rnd 2: [2 hdc, hdc inc] x 21, sl st into first st, ch 1 (84)
Rnd 3 – 9 (7 rnds): 84 hdc, sl st to first st, ch 1 (84)

Rnd 10: [13 hdc, hdc inc] x 6 (90)
Rnd 11: 90 hdc (90)
F/O and make an invisible st to finish, weave in the tail.

UNDER SKIRT
Using cream yarn, turn your work upside down and insert your hook under the last FLO of rnd 41 of the body and ch 1 (Pic. 9).
Repeat rnds 1 – 11 of the top skirt. At the end of rnd 11, do not F/O, ch 1 to start rnd 12.
Rnd 12: BLO make 3 hdc in the same st and repeat in each st of the rnd (270)
F/O and make an invisible st to finish, weave in the tail.

ARMS – MAKE 2
Start with light brown yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [1 sc, inc] x 3 (9)
Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] x 3 (12)
Rnd 4 – 6 (3 rnds): 12 sc (12)
Rnd 7: [2 sc, dec] x 3 (9)
Rnd 8: 9 sc (9) – Change to blush at the end of rnd 8

Rnd 9: 9 sc (9)
Rnd 10: BLO 9 sc (9) – stuff the hand only
Rnd 11 – 24 (14 rnds): 9 sc (9)
Make additional sc so that the end of rnd 24 is inline with
the colour join.
Flatten your work and make 4 sc through both layers to
close. F/O and leave a long tail for attaching.

CUFF
Using blush yarn, turn your work upside down and insert your hook under the last FLO of rnd 9. Pull up a loop, ch 2 and make 1 dc in the same st. Make 1 dc inc in each of the next 8 sts. (18)
F/O and make an invisible st to finish, weave in the tail.

LEGS – MAKE 2
Start with light brown yarn. Stuff as you go until rnd 36.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [inc] x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: [1 sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: [5 sc, inc] x 3 (21)
Rnd 5 – 7 (3 rnds): 21 sc (21)
Rnd 8: [5 sc, dec] x 3 (18)
Rnd 9: 2 sc, dec, [4 sc, dec] x 2, 2 sc (15)
Rnd 10: [3 sc, dec] x 3 (12)

Rnd 11 – 19 (9 rnds): 12 sc (12) – Change to cream at the end of rnd 19.
Rnd 20: 12 sc (12)
Rnd 21: BLO 12 sc (12)
Rnd 22 – 39 (18 rnds): 12 sc (12)
Make additional sc so that the end of rnd 39 is in line with the colour join.
Flatten your work and make 6 sc through both layers to close. F/O
and leave a long tail for attaching.

PANT EDGE
Using cream yarn, turn your work upside down and insert your hook under the last FLO of rnd 20. Pull up a loop, ch 2 and make 1 dc in the same st. Make a dc inc in each of the next 11 sts. (24)
F/O and make an invisible st to finish, weave in the tail.

EARS – MAKE 2
Using light brown yarn. The ears are not stuffed.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in mr (6)
Rnd 2: [1 sc, inc] x 3 (9)
Rnd 3: [2 sc, inc] x 3 (12)

Rnd 4: [3 sc, inc] x 3 (15)
Rnd 5: [4 sc, inc] x 3 (18)
Rnd 6 – 10 (5 rnds): 18 sc (18)
Rnd 11: [4 sc, dec] x 3 (15) – Make 1 additional sc at the end of rnd 11.

We will now close the ears with the following 4 steps to give them their shape

ANTLERS – MAKE 2
The antlers are made in 2 parts and joined together to make one piece. Use
cream yarn.
PART A
Rnd 1: 5 sc in mr (5)
Rnd 2: inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc (7)
Rnd 3 – 4 (2 rnds): 7 sc (7)
F/O leaving a long tail (we will use this to close any gaps between the 2 parts later).
PART B
Repeat Part A but do not F/O at the end of rnd 4.
Rnd 5: Join the 2 parts by making a sc into the first sc of rnd 4 of Part A (Pic.
24), make a further 6 sc around Part A and 7 sc around Part B. (14)
Rnd 6: [dec, 1sc] x 4, dec (9)
F/O with a long tail and make an invisible st to finish.
Using the tail from Part A, close any gaps between the 2 parts and weave it
in. Stuff the antlers very lightly.

FLOWERS – MAKE 2
Using coral and pastel pink yarn and work in rows.
Ch 15 and start in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Row 1: [1 sc, inc] x 7 (21)
F/O and leave a long tail. Roll the flower into a rose shape and secure with a few sts on the underside.

LEAVES – MAKE 3
Using pistachio yarn and work in rows.
Ch 6, start in the 3rd ch from the hook.
Row 1: sc, 2 dc, sl st in the last st. (4)
F/O and leave a long tail for attaching.

ASSEMBLY
Arrange the leaves in front of the right antler (Pic. 45). Sew them in place leaving the tips of the leaves unattached.
Secure and hide the tails in the head.
Place the flowers on top of the leaves and sew them in place. Secure and hide the tails in the head.

PETER PAN COLLAR
The collar is worked in rows. Using cream yarn, leave a long starting tail and ch 24. Start in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Row 1: sc, hdc inc, dc inc, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 9sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, dc inc, hdc inc, sc, turn. (27)
Row 2: [ch 2, sl st into next st] x 27 (81)
F/O with a long tail and weave it towards the starting ch. Secure in place.
Place the collar on your Hattie and tie it in position. Make a knot in each strand at an equal length of each other (Pic. 48) and trim the tails (Pic. 49).

FINISH